中国古代黄栌染的史料及相关问题探析  

Discussion about Historical Records and its related Problems of Cotinus Coggygria Dying in China

作　　者：赵翰生[1] ZHAO Han-sheng(Institute for the History of Natural Science,CAS,Beijing 100191 China)

机构地区：[1]中国科学院自然科学史研究所

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2019年第6期1-6,共6页Fashion Guide

摘　　要：[研究意义]漆树科属植物黄栌是中国古代非常重要的黄色染材之一,[研究方法]文章对古代黄栌染相关史料进行了梳理。[研究结果与结论]研究认为:汉代文献中出现的橐芦和木乎木在当作黄栌染史料利用时要慎重和存疑,且宋以后关于黄栌形态特征、产地及染黄的记载,文字内容基本上是辑录唐代的文献,新增内容甚少。对史料中“栌”“芦”二字相互借用的情况也做了说明,并根据一些间接文献和黄栌染色实验,道出了黄栌染色尽管色牢度不佳却仍被当作主流染材大量使用的原因。Anacardiaceae belongs to Cotinus coggygria plant,which is one of the most important yellow dyes in ancient China.This article summarizes the historical records related to the Cotinus coggygria and points when being used as Berberis amurensis dye,Chinese Characters“橐芦”and“木乎木”mentioned in historical documents in Han Dynasty,must be used carefully and doubtfully.And after Song Dynasty,in the records about the features and origin of Cotinus coggygria and yellow dying,the words are compiled from the documents in Tan Dynasty with few new contents.This article also explains that Chinese Characters“栌”and“芦”borrows from each other in historical records and illustrates the reason why Cotinus coggygria having been mostly used as leading dye in spite of its worse color fastness via many indirect documents and dying experiments of Cotinus Coggygria.

关 键 词：黄栌 黄芦 染黄 

分 类 号：TS193.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]