聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能  

Shape retention and wearing properties of polyester filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics

作　　者：魏艳红 刘新金 谢春萍[1] 苏旭中[1] 张钟唏 WEI Yanhong;LIU Xinjin;XIE Chunping;SU Xuzhong;ZHANG Zhongxi(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles(Jiangnan University),Ministry of Education,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Nantong Textile Holding Group Textile Dyeing Limited Company,Nantong,Jiangsu 226007,China)

机构地区：[1]生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学),江苏无锡214122 [2]南通纺织控股集团纺织染有限公司,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《纺织学报》2019年第12期39-44,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200);江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心基金项目(XJFZ/2018/09);江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(SJCX180623);江苏省产学研合作项目(BY2018185)

摘　　要：为研究聚酯(PET)长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能,利用PET长丝与纯棉纱开发了3种线密度为9.8 tex的纱线,并以二上二下斜纹组织织造了4种织物。对织物进行了折皱回复性、免烫性、尺寸稳定性、悬垂性等保形性能,强伸性、拉伸弹性、顶破性等抗变形性测试,以及手感风格、透湿性、透气性等服用性能测试。对比分析了纯棉纱织物与复合纱织物的保形性与服用性能。结果表明:PET长丝/棉复合纱可改善纯棉织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性,提高免烫等级,同时又不影响织物的服用性能;包芯纱织物比包缠纱织物有更好的保形性,更高的免烫等级,是免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。In order to study shape retention and wearing properties of polyester( PET) filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics,three kinds of 9. 8 tex yarns were developed from PET filament and pure cotton yarn. Four kinds of fabrics were woven with two up two down twill weaves. The shape retention and wearing properties of the fabrics were tested,such as wrinkle recovery, ironing-free, dimensional stability,drapability,tensile strength,tensile resilience,bursting property,handle style,moisture and air permeability. The shape retention and wearing properties of pure cotton fabric and composite yarn fabric were compared and analyzed. The results show that the PET filament/cotton composite yarns can improve the wrinkle resistance,drapability of the fabrics and the ironing-free level without affecting the wearing property of the fabric. Compared with the wrapped yarns,the core yarn fabric has higher wrinkle resistance and ironing-free level. The core yarn fabric is a good idea for ironing-free shirt fabrics.

关 键 词：聚酯长丝/棉复合纱 折皱回复角 免烫织物 免烫等级 悬垂性 保形性 透气性 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS104.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]