局部起圈凹凸小提花面料的设计与开发  

Design and development of small jacquard fabric with local loops and uneven

作　　者：隋全侠 SUI Quanxia(Textile and Clothing Institute,College of Jiangsu Engineering Vocational Technology,Nantong,Jiangsu 226007,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院纺织服装学院

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2019年第12期19-22,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：江苏省高校品牌专业建设工程项目(PPZY2015A093)

摘　　要：为了在小样织机上织造局部起圈凹凸小提花面料,在局部起圈方法、组织及配色、增强面料凹凸感等方面进行了创新设计。通过插入细棍支撑纱线起圈,起圈经纱每次单独提综,织物下机后,抽掉细棍形成毛圈。起圈部分采用毛巾组织,不起圈部分采用双层组织,配有凹凸感较强的蜂巢组织;织物配色采用渐变红和渐变蓝起花,白色为地。织造时,穿筘采用花穿法,同时,利用插入细棍形成的纬斜效果,使花型轮廓具有流畅的曲线感。经过设计与实践,开发出了局部起圈织物,起圈花型的形状、位置自由可控,凸起部分花型饱满、凹下部分蜂巢逐渐过渡、双层地布细腻紧致,拓宽了起圈面料的设计思路。In order to develop the small jacquard fabric of local loops and uneven on sample loom,local loops method,fabric weaves,color matching and uneven of fabric were designed.The looped warp yarn was lifted separately every time by inserting the fine rod to support the yarn loops.After the loops was finished,the fine rod was removed to form loops.Towel weaves were applied on the loop area,double weaves were applied on the no loop area used,and the uneven honeycomb weaves were applied on the other areas.The fabric colors were gradient red and gradient blue,with white as the ground.Different roots were inserted the reed during weaving process,meanwhile the skew effect formed by inserting the fine rod.Hence,the pattern outline had a smooth curve.Finally,the local loops fabric was developed.The shape and position of the loop pattern can be freely controlled,loop pattern was raised and full,the honeycomb was gradually transited and sunk,and the double-layer ground cloth was fine,smooth and compact.The study broadens the design way of loops fabric.

关 键 词：局部起圈 组织设计 经纱起圈 蜂巢组织 曲线感 

分 类 号：TS106.54[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]