原液着色涡流纱与不同捻系数环锭纱的颜色匹配  

Color Matching of Vortex Yarn and Ring Spun Yarn with Different Twist Coefficients by the Composition of Spun-Dyed Fiber

作　　者：金佳冰 卢雨正[1] 傅佳佳[1] 郭明瑞[1] 张鑫 JIN Jiabing;LU Yuzheng;FU Jiajia;GUO Mingrui;ZHANG Xin(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室

出　　处：《服装学报》2019年第6期484-489,共6页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(31470509);“政府间国际科技创新合作”重点专项项目(2016YFE0115700);江苏省产学研前瞻性研究项目(BY2016022-23);现代丝绸国家工程实验室技术创新基金项目(KJS1312);江苏高校品牌建设工程项目(PPZY2015B147);“江苏省博士后科研资助计划”项目(2018K018A)

摘　　要：选用蓝色涤纶纤维纺制了线密度为36.90 tex的环锭纱和涡流纱,环锭纱捻系数设置为280,320,360,400,440。将涡流纱和环锭纱织成1+1罗纹的针织小样,采用Datacolor测色,绘制光谱反射率曲线及色差图,并对L,a,b数据进行直线拟合。结果表明:捻系数为440的环锭纱与涡流纱的颜色匹配度较好,色差最小,且织物顶破强力接近。两种纱线之间存在色差的主要原因为纱线表面结构。Blue polyester fiber was used to spin ring spun yarn and vortex yarn of 36.9 tex. The twist coefficients of ring spun yarns were set as 280, 320, 360, 400 and 440, respectively. The vortex yarn and ring spun yarn were woven into 1+1 rib knitted samples, and datacolor was used to measure the color of the samples. Then the spectral reflectance curves and chromatic aberration diagrams were drawn and the data of L, a, b were fitted with straight lines. The results show that the color of spun ring yarn with the twist coefficient of 440 is the closest to that of the vortex yarn and has the minimum color difference, and the bursting strength of fabrics does not make much difference in this case. The main reason for the color difference between the two yarns is the yarn surface structure.

关 键 词：原液着色纤维 涡流纱 环锭纱 捻系数 色差 纱线表面结构 

分 类 号：TS154.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]