宋代织物印金工艺与纹样艺术  

Technology and Art Analysis of Fabric Woven Gold in the Song Dynasty

作　　者：何一鹏 张毅 HE Yipeng;ZHANG Yi(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院

出　　处：《服装学报》2019年第6期510-514,共5页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学重点项目(15AG004);江苏省社会科学基金项目(16YSB007)

摘　　要：织物印金是传统饰金艺术的一种,基于对发掘资料的整理及出土实物的研究,依照工艺特点将织物印金分为直接手绘法、销金印花法、印金敷彩法3种类型进行分析,并描述其纹样的造型、色彩、题材。发现织物印金工艺在宋代发展繁盛,并在沿袭传统印金艺术的基础上,形成以印金敷彩为主的工艺特征。宋代印金图案与前朝繁荣华贵的风格不同,具有清淡素雅、戒奢从简的时代风貌。Textile gold printing is one of the traditional gold printing arts.It could be divided into three process types:direct hand-drawn printing,gold-pins printing and color-painted printing,based on the sorting of excavated materials and the research of unearthed objects.The shapes,colors and themes of their patterns were also described.It was found that textile gold printing technology flourished in the Song Dynasty.It was formed a technological characteristic that gold-printed-and-color-painted technology predominates,based on the inheritance of traditional gold printing arts.The pattern of gold printing in Song Dynasty was different from the prosperous and luxurious style of the previous dynasty,which reflected the styles of the time,simple but elegant and frugal instead of extravagant.

关 键 词：织物印金 工艺特性 纹样特色 宋代 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J523.1[艺术—艺术设计]