南沙群岛礁概化地形上拍岸浪数值模拟与统计分析  

Numerical simulations and statistical analysis of surf on the generalized topography of the Nansha Islands

作　　者：曹广颂 朱首贤[1] 张文静 聂屿 Cao Guangsong;Zhu Shouxian;Zhang Wenjing;Nie Yu(College of Oceanography,Hohai University,Nanjing 210098,China;College of Meteorology and Oceanography,National University of Defence Tichnology,Nanjing 211101,China;PLA Unit 91937,Zhoushan 316000,China)

机构地区：[1]河海大学海洋学院,江苏南京210098 [2]国防科技大学气象海洋学院,江苏南京211101 [3]中国人民解放军91937部队,浙江舟山316000

出　　处：《海洋学报》2020年第1期22-30,共9页

基　　金：国家自然科学基金（41076048,41376012）;中央高校基本科研业务费项目（2018B46914）

摘　　要：南沙群岛珊瑚岛礁众多,大多数岛礁具有向海坡陡峭、外礁坪比较平缓的特征。将南沙群岛岛礁的迎浪向地形概化为陡坡和缓坡组成的双斜坡,采用FUNWAVE-TVD模式数值模拟概化地形上的波浪,根据模拟的破碎波高分析其拍岸浪特征。对拍岸浪数值模拟结果进行比较分析,向海坡的坡度对拍岸浪影响不大,外礁坪上拍岸浪高随地形坡度增大而略有增大;向海坡和外礁坪交界位置(即坡折点)水深对拍岸浪有比较明显的影响,拍岸浪高随坡折点水深增大而减小;拍岸浪高随入射波高和波周期增大而增大。利用大量的拍岸浪数值模拟数据对国内外5种统计模型进行检验,并且基于拍岸浪数值模拟数据建立了3种南沙群岛岛礁拍岸浪统计模型,计算结果显示这些模型适用性较好。There are hundreds of islands and reefs in Nansha Islands. Most of them are characterized by steep seaward slope and gentle outer reef flat. The wave-facing topography of reefs were generalized to a pair of slopes.FUNWAVE-TVD was adopted to simulate shoaling and breaking. Breaking wave heights simulated by the model were analyzed. The slope of seaward slopes has little influence on surf. The breaking wave height on the outer reef flat only increases slightly as the slope increases. The water depth at the turning of the seaward slope and the out reef flat(i.e. the turning point of the slope) has relatively obvious influence on the surf. The breaking wave height decreases with the increasing of water depth at the turning point. The breaker height will also increase with the increasing of incident wave height and wave period. Five statistical models of breaking wave heights compared with the simulating results. Three types of new statistical models are also established based on the simulating result. The results of error calculation show that these models have good applicability.

关 键 词：南沙群岛岛礁 概化地形 拍岸浪 FUNWAVE-TVD 统计模型 

分 类 号：P731.2[天文地球—海洋科学]