晚清满族女子便服“隐襕”研究  

The research of " hidden pattern arrangement"( Yinlan) of Manchu women’s casual clothes in late Qing dynasty

作　　者：黄乔宇 刘瑞璞[1] HUANG Qiaoyu;LIU Ruipu(College of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第2期83-90,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学重大项目(18ZD20);北京服装学院2019年研究生科研创新项目(120301990122)

摘　　要：为建立晚清满族女子便服纹章谱系,以私人收藏和博物馆藏品为研究对象,通过对传世晚清女子服饰的形制、纹样特征与类型进行系统整理和分析后,解开了其匹料制作过程中纹饰置陈密码。结合历史文献的考证,这套稳定的架构背后所隐藏的襕文化得以重现于世。襕作为中国多民族间共同的服饰基因,自南北朝出现就有史可考。襕在发展中从衣身制式发展成纹样装饰,后襕饰又由显入隐,在清代女子便服的满地纹中形成隐襕,隐襕的发现是中华襕文化自南北朝发展至清代仍未断裂的有力证明。In order to establish the pattern pedigree of Manchu women’s casual clothes in the late Qing dynasty,the private collections and museum collections were chosen as the research object.Through the systematic sorting and analysis of the shapes,pattern characteristics and types of the women’s clothes handed down from generation to generation in the late Qing dynasty,the paper unties the code of pattern layout in the process of fabrics making.Combined with the textual research of historical documents,the culture of LAN hidden behind this stable architecture can be reproduced in the world.Lan,as a common dress gene among Chinese multi-ethnic groups,has a history since the appearance of the Southern and Northern dynasties.Lan developed from the structure of clothes to the pattern decoration of clothes,and later Lan decoration changed from obviousness to hiddenness,finally forming Yinlan in the pattern of women’s casual clothes in the Qing dynasty.The discovery of Yinlan is a strong proof that the culture of Lan in China has not disappeared from the Southern and Northern dynasties to the Qing dynasty.

关 键 词：晚清 便服 满族 隐襕 纹样 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]