横机编织绞花复合纹样的创新设计与工艺  

Innovative design and manufacture of cable stitch composite pattern with flat knitting machine

作　　者：熊秋元[1] XIONG Qiuyuan(Changzhou Textile Garment Institute,Changzhou,Jiangsu 213164,China)

机构地区：[1]常州纺织服装职业技术学院

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第1期38-42,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：江苏高校品牌专业建设工程资助项目(PPZY2015B192)

摘　　要：借鉴传统木雕的雕刻手法以及棒针编织手法,结合绞花、阿兰花、提花、浮线、正反线圈的肌理效果,分析电脑横机绞花编织原理,采用国产电脑横机,结合毛衫工艺设计软件及横编组织设计原则,对绞花组织制版方法进行创意设计及工艺研究,开发出门窗木雕装饰纹样、十字交错纹样、蜂巢装饰纹样、蕾丝纹样等多种肌理风格绞花复合织物;阐述了绞花蜂巢组合纹样编织的工艺要点及注意事项。该设计方法和编织形式可为绞花组织设计拓展新的创作思路。In this paper,the traditional woodcarving technique and needle knitting was combined with the texture effect of cable stitch,aroma,jacquard,floating line and positive and negative coils to make innovative design and technique research of cable stitch based on the analysis of the cable stitch action on domestic computerized flat knitting machine,combine with the design principle of flat knitting design and the design of the sweater technology,and a variety of texture styles such as door and window wood carving decoration,up and down staggered pattern,honeycomb decorative pattern,lace pattern and so on were developed.The key technique and notes on composite cable pattern were introduced and the design method and knitting form can expand a new design idea for calbe pattern design.

关 键 词：横机 纹样 编织 设计 肌理 制版 

分 类 号：TS186.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]