试探女装无胸省翻驳领外套的领省处理方法  

Treatment of Neck Dart of Women’s Lapel Coat Without Chest Dart

作　　者：欧敏静 

机构地区：[1]广东省工业贸易职业技术学校

出　　处：《纺织导报》2020年第2期89-91,共3页China Textile Leader

摘　　要：当前女装宽松呢料外套的设计多采用简洁的线条,并没有太多的分割线,因此在结构设计上更加讲求胸省的处理方法。如果是翻驳领款式,则可以把胸省转移到领子下面做领省处理。传统常用的处理方法在转移胸省量到领省后会导致领省线长度不一,缝合后领省处不易平服。因此,文章通过比较和分析女装上衣胸省的常用处理手段来探索新的领省处理方法,即通过把胸省的量分别散布在翻驳线和领子外围弧线,合理解决领省线的长度问题,同时比较符合人体穿着需求;此外,通过比较新的领省处理方法与常用领省处理方法,提出新的领省方法的利弊之处和使用范围。Nowadays the popular women’s loose woolen coat has a simple silhouette design.Few dividing lines require the suitable design of chest dart in the apparel structure.If the style is design with a lapel collar,designers can transfer the chest dart to the down part of the collar as the neck dart.The conventional methods will lead to a different length of the neck dart line after transferring the chest dart to the neck dart,which may make the neck dart wrinkle after stitching.Therefore,the paper explores a new design of neck dart based on the comparison and analysis of the common design of the chest dart for women’s wear.By transferring the spare chest dart to the lapel line and the outer arc of the collar respectively,the length problem of the neck dart has been solved reasonably,and it is more in line with the needs of the human body.In addition,by comparing new neck dart design with common neck dart design,the paper also puts forward its advantages and disadvantages as well as application range.

关 键 词：翻驳领 领省 省道转移 服装结构 女装外套 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]