织物组织及芯丝含量对织物性能的影响  

Influence of Fabric Texture and Core Yarn Content on Fabric Property

作　　者：秦潇璇[1] 魏艳红 苏旭中 QIN Xiaoxuan;WEI Yanhong;SU Xuzhong(l.Wuxi City College of Vocational Technology,Jiangsu Wuxi,214000;Jiangnan University,Jiangsu Wuxi,214122)

机构地区：[1]无锡城市职业技术学院,江苏无锡214000 [2]江南大学,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2020年第3期26-31,共6页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：江苏省教育科学“十三五”规划重点资助课题(B-a/2018/03/12);江苏省高校哲学社会科学研究基金项目(2018SJA0890);江苏省高校哲学社会科学研究基金项目(2015SJD385);无锡城市职业技术学院青蓝工程优秀教学团队;无锡城市职业技术学院科研创新团队;江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划(SJCX18 0623)

摘　　要：探讨织物组织及芯丝含量对织物保形性及舒适性的影响。采用JC 18.5 tex纱、JC 18.5 tex(T4004.44 tex)包芯纱和JC 18.5 tex(T4005.56 tex)包芯纱,以平纹与二上二下左斜纹设计织造了8种织物;对8种织物的5项保形性指标和3项舒适性指标进行了测试。结果表明:在相同的织物规格下,二上二下左斜纹织物的抗皱性、悬垂性比平纹织物的好,且T400芯丝含量越高,织物折皱回复性、悬垂性越好,免烫等级越高;二上二下左斜纹织物的透气性比平纹的好。认为:为了改善织物的舒适度,使用T400包芯纱开发衬衫面料时,宜采用二上二下左斜纹组织。The influence of fabric texture and core-yarn content on the fabric conformality and comfort were discussed.JC 18.5 tex yarn,JC 18.5 tex(T4004.44 tex)core spun yarn and JC 18.5 tex(T4005.56 tex)core-spun yarn were used.Eight kinds of fabrics were designed and woven with plain weave and two up two down left twill.Five conformality indexes and three comfort indexes of the eight kinds of fabrics were tested.The test results showed that the wrinkle resistance and drapability of two up two down left twill was better than that of plain weave fabric when the fabric specification was the same.Moreover,as the increase of T400 corn filaments,the wrinkle recovery,drapability and easy-care grade were higher.The air permeability of the two up two down left twill fabric was better than that of plain weave fabrics.It is considered that two up two down left twill texture is suitable when T400 corespun yarn is used to develop shirt fabric for fabric comfort improvement.

关 键 词：T400 包芯纱 断裂强度 悬垂性 抗起毛起球性 透湿性 透气率 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]