仿羊绒面料的设计与开发  

Design and Development of Cashmere-like Fabric

作　　者：王银生[1] 张秀峰 蔡红梅 WANG Yinsheng;ZHANG Xiufeng;CAI Hongmei(Jiangsu Lianfa Textile Co.,Ltd.,Jiangsu Nantong,226600)

机构地区：[1]江苏联发纺织股份有限公司

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2020年第3期39-42,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：总结一款仿羊绒面料的设计思路和开发要点。分析了仿羊绒面料的产品设计思路;表层经、纬纱均为精梳长绒棉28 tex纱,里层经纱为长绒棉14.6 tex纱,里层纬纱为长绒棉/羊绒90/1073 tex混纺纱。采用下接上的接结方式,保证两层面料紧密连接。介绍了色经与色纬排列、浆纱和织造工艺要点。反面拉绒整理保证了面料的厚度和保暖性。最终开发的仿羊绒面料保留了羊绒面料蓬松、舒适、柔软、保暖等优良性能,解决了羊绒面料的固有缺陷,能够满足广大普通消费者的需求。认为:开发的织物是一款性能优良的秋冬仿羊绒面料。Design thought and development key points of a cashmere-like fabric were summarized.The product design thoughts of cashmere-like fabric were analyzed.Both surface warp and weft were combed long-staple cotton28 tex yarn.The inner layer warp was long-staple cotton 14.6 tex yarn.The inner layer weft was long-staple cotton/cashmere 90/1073 tex blended yarn.Bottom jointed with top was adapted as the jointing method to ensure two layers fabric jointed tightly.The processing key points of color spun warp and colored spun weft arrangement,sizing and weaving were introduced.Brushed finishing at the back side ensured the thickness and warmth of the fabric.In the end,the developed cashmere-like fabric was with excellent cashmere-like properties like fluffy,comfort,soft,warmth and so on.The native defects of cashmere fabrics were solved.It could meet the requirements of the general common consumer.It is considered that the developed fabric is a cashmere-like fabric for autumn and winter with excellent properties.

关 键 词：长绒棉 羊绒 色纺纱 双层织物 仿羊绒面料 保暖性能 拉绒整理 设计开发 

分 类 号：TS106.53[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]