棉真丝绉条交织物的开发  

Development of Cotton Silk Crepe Interwoven Fabric

作　　者：陈桂香 陈浩文[2] 瞿建新 CHEN Guixiang;CHEN Haowen;QU Jianxin(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Jiangsu Nantong,226007;Nantong Vocational University,Jiangsu Nantong,226007)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226007 [2]南通职业大学,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2020年第3期73-76,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：江苏高校品牌专业建设工程资助项目(PPZY2015A093);江苏先进纺织工程中心科研项目(XJFZ/2016-9);江苏工院科研项目(GYKY/2019/4)

摘　　要：总结一款棉真丝绉条织物的生产要点。介绍了织物色纱排列、织物设计规格和生产流程;经纱为6种颜色的JC 11.7 tex纱,介绍了筒纱煮漂和染色工艺;ZDA型分批整经机整经速度480 m/min;浆纱采用"中车速,保伸长,小张力"的工艺原则;对GA718型喷气织机开口时间、引纬工艺、喷气压力等进行了优化;后整理采用绳状处理结合松式定形。认为:生产的织物手感滑爽丰满,吸湿透气,适宜于夏季女短袖、套裙等。Production key points of cotton silk crepe inerwoven fabric were discussed.Color yarn arrangement,fabric design specifications and production process were introduced.6 kinds of colors JC 11.7 tex yarn was taken as warp.Boiling and dyeing process of bobbin yarn were introduced.Warping speed of ZDA type beam warping machine was 480 m/min.Process principle of medium speed,maintaining elongation and smaller tension was adopted in sizing process.Shed timing,weft insertion process and air pressure of GA718 type air-jet loom were optimized.Rope-like treatment combined with loose setting was adopted in finishing process.It is considered that the fabric produced has smooth and plump feel,hygroscopic and breathable,which is suitable for summer women′s short sleeves and skirts.

关 键 词：色纱 蚕丝 经密 染色 整经机 浆料 交织物 后整理 

分 类 号：TS106.842[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]