具有紫外线防护性能的植物提取物研究  

Study on the Properties of Plant Extracts with UV Protection

作　　者：刘慧民 王万绪 杨跃飞 台秀梅 LIU Hui-min;WANG Wan-xu;YANG Yue-fei;TAI Xiu-mei(China Research Institute of Daily Chemical Industry,Taiyuan 030001,Shan'xi,China;Yalan International Shanghai Create Beauty Biological Technology Co.,L td.,S hanghai 201800,China)

机构地区：[1]中国日用化学研究院有限公司,山西太原030001 [2]雅兰国际上海筑美生物科技有限公司,上海201800

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2019年第6期58-64,81,共8页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

基　　金：国家重点研发计划经费资助项目(项目编号2017YFB0308704);伽蓝研究基金资助项目(Jala 2016)

摘　　要：研究了四种植物提取物的不同浓度对配方SPF值、PFA值的影响,并详细分析了UVB吸收率与SPF值的关系;分别研究了植物提取物与物理防晒剂、化学防晒剂、铁红、铁黄和铁黑的复配,结果表明:植物提取物与二氧化钛复配,具有针对SPF、PFA值的协同增效作用,但水溶性黄芩苷、杜仲绿原酸与氧化锌复配均出现颜色异常;植物提取物与化学防晒剂均有针对SPF、PFA值的协同增效作用,其中杜仲绿原酸的增效效果最为明显;植物提取物与铁红、铁黄、铁黑的复配表明:铁红、铁黄、铁黑均未对提取物的紫外吸收产生掩蔽作用,但水溶性黄芩苷与铁黑复配出现颜色异常,不可用于彩妆。In this paper, the effects of different concentrations of four plant extracts on SPF and PFA of formula were studied, and the relationship between UVB absorption rate and SPF was analyzed in detail. Plant extracts and physical UV filter, chemical UV filter, iron oxide were studied. The results showed that when the plant extracts were compounded with titanium dioxide, it had the synergistic effect on SPF and PFA. However, the water-soluble baicalin, eucommia chlorogenic acid and zinc oxide complexes all showed color abnormalities;the four plant extracts and chemical UV filters had synergistic effects on SPF and PFA. Among them, the synergistic effect of eucommia chlorogenic acid was the most obvious;the combination of extracts and iron oxides indicated that iron oxides did not mask the UV absorption of the extract, but the water-soluble baicalin and iron oxides compounds color was abnormal, and it could not be used for makeup.

关 键 词：防晒剂 植物提取物 SPF值 PFA值 

分 类 号：TQ658.24[化学工程—精细化工]