经编单贾卡提花间隔鞋面的研发  

Production Practice of Warp Knitted Single Jacquard Spaced Vamp

作　　者：汪健东 夏风林 Wang Jiandong;Xia Fenglin(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心

出　　处：《针织工业》2020年第2期17-20,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金（JUSRP51727A）

摘　　要：分析运动鞋材的使用功能,阐述在双针床单贾卡经编机上编织经编贾卡间隔鞋面的工艺和技巧。介绍生产设备、原料选择和单贾卡提花原理。采用锦纶和涤纶在常德E2296-J6/1型双针床经编机上开发一款经编贾卡间隔鞋面,介绍面料的结构设计、贾卡设计、编织工艺以及预定形、除油、染色、成品定形等后整理工艺。并对面料的耐磨性能、透气性、顶破性能、透湿性进行测试。结果表明,开发的经编间隔鞋面具有良好的耐磨性、透气性和透湿性,可满足经编鞋材的使用要求。This paper analyzes the function of sports shoe material,and expounds the technology and skill of knitting warp jacquard spaced upper on double needle bar single jacquard warp knitting machine.It introduces the production equipment,raw materials selection and the principle of single jacquard.A warp knitted jacquard spaced upper is developed on Changde E2296-J6/1 double needle bar warp knitting machine by using nylon and polyester,and the structure design,jacquard design,knitting process and finishing process such as pre-setting,degreasing,dyeing and finished product setting of the fabric are introduced.And the wear resistance,air permeability,bursting properties and moisture permeability of the fabric are tested.The results show that the developed warp knitted spacer vamp has good wear resistance,air permeability and moisture permeability,which can meet the requirements of warp knitted shoe materials.

关 键 词：经编 双针床经编间隔织物 贾卡提花 鞋面 工艺设计 性能测试 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]