芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响  

Effect of core yarn type on wrinkle resistance and deformation resistance of fabric

作　　者：魏艳红 刘新金 谢春萍[1] 苏旭中[1] WEI Yanhong;LIU Xinjin;XIE Chunping;SU Xuzhong(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Geron Card Clothing(Jiangsu)Co.,Ltd.,Nantong 226143,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122 [2]金轮针布(江苏)有限公司,江苏南通226143

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第3期17-23,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200);江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(SJCX180623);江苏省科技副总项目(FZ20180497);江苏省产学研合作项目(BY2018185);江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心基金项目(XJFZ/2018/09)。

摘　　要：文章采用全聚纺纺纱方式生产了JC/PET、JC/PTT、JC/SPH、JC/T400四种包芯纱和一种纯棉纱,利用这五种纱线织造了规格相同的五种机织物。分别利用客观与主观评价法,评价织物的抗皱性及平整度等级,同时测试了织物的拉伸弹性回复率,以研究芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响。结果表明:芯丝的加入可以改善纯棉织物的平整度;长丝的初始模量、弹性影响织物的抗皱等级,SPH的初始模量最高、T400的弹性回复性最好,因此JC/SPH和JC/T400包芯纱织物抗皱等级最高,可以达到3. 5级;且这两种长丝的表面均有沟槽,截面为异形,起到毛细管作用,其织物具有较好的吸湿排汗作用,是开发高保形免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。In this paper,four core-spun yarns( JC/PET,JC/PTT,JC/SPH and JC/T400) and one pure cotton yarn were produced by complete condensing spinning. Five fabrics of the same size were woven with these five kinds of yarns. In order to study the effects of the core yarn type on the wrinkle resistance and deformation resistance of the fabrics,the objective and subjective evaluation methods were used to evaluate the wrinkle resistance and flatness level of the fabric,and the tensile elastic recovery rate of the fabrics was tested. The results show that the addition of core yarn can improve the flatness of the pure cotton fabric. The initial modulus and elasticity of the filament affect the wrinkle resistance of the fabrics. The initial modulus of SPH is the highest,and the elastic recovery of T400 is the best. Thus,JC/SPH and JC/T400 core-spun yarn fabrics have the highest anti-wrinkle grade,reach Grade 3. 5. At the same time,the surface of SPH and T400 filaments have the trench,and the cross section is profiled,which acts as a capillary. The fabrics have good moisture absorption and sweat releasing effect. These two kinds of filament core-spun yarns can be used to develop the non-ironing shirt fabrics with high shaperetention.

关 键 词：长丝 折皱回复角 织物抗皱性 弹性回复性 初始模量 高保形 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]