民国丝绸印花品种及工艺技术发展概述--以传世旗袍织物为中心的研究  

A summary of the development of silk printing varieties and technologies in the Republic of China: a study centered on the fabric of Cheongsam

作　　者：龚建培[1] GONG Jianpei(School of Design,Nanjing University of Art,Nanjing 210013,China)

机构地区：[1]南京艺术学院设计学院,南京210013

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第3期62-70,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部社会科学基金项目(12YJA760016);江苏省社会科学基金项目(11YSDO19)。

摘　　要：民国是中国近代丝绸印花的发端时期,也是走向商业化、大众化、国际化的繁荣时代。文章从笔者收藏、拍摄的民国传世旗袍中,选择具有代表性的部分织物,对民国丝绸印染的品种分类、设计方法、技术发展等进行了考察、界定、研究。并对民国丝绸印染品种发展中的创新成果、借鉴途径,以及存在的不足进行了全面、系统的梳理,研究表明:民国丝绸印花创造了中国丝绸印染品种及工艺技术发展史上的另一次高峰,为新中国丝绸印染的发展奠定了良好的基础。The Republic of China is the beginning of modern silk printing in China,and it is also a prosperous era towards commercialization,popularization and internationalization. In this paper,some representative fabrics were selected from nearly 1000 pieces of cheongsam handed down from the Republic of China. The classification,design method and technical development of silk dyeing and printing in the Republic of China were investigated and studied. The innovative achievements,ways of reference and shortcomings in the development of silk printing and dyeing varieties in the Republic of China were comprehensively and systematically sorted out. The research shows that silk printing in the Republic of China has created a peak in the development history of silk printing and dyeing varieties in China,laid a good foundation for the development of silk printing and dyeing in New China.

关 键 词：民国时期 丝绸印花 品种与设计 工艺技术 旗袍织物 

分 类 号：TS941-09[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]