20世纪80-90年代中国女装的折衷思想表现  

Expression of eclectic thought in women’s wear in 1980s-1990s

作　　者：施文帆 吴志明[1] SHI Wenfan;WU Zhiming(College of Textiles and Garments,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第3期101-106,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社科基本艺术学项目(18BG114);教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(18YJA760048)。

摘　　要：20世纪80-90年代是中国服装从禁锢走向解放的重要时期,在政治经济稳定、中西思潮碰撞融合的背景下,国人以宽容的心态折衷兼容外来文化,尤其是女性的价值观和社会心态变得更加开放,造成女装繁荣多元的局面,可视为中国本土服装潮流的奠基。文章发掘改革开放80-90年代典型潮流女装的发展过程,以折衷主义为理论基础,结合实例分析其折衷思想表现特征和折衷主义思想形成的内外因,反思在经济贸易一体化大发展、强调时尚化与本土化融合、重视民族文化的当下,批判性的折衷是长久之计。The period of 1980 s-1990 s is an important period for Chinese clothing from imprisonment to liberation. Under the background of political and economic stability and the collision of Chinese and western thoughts,Chinese treated foreign cultures tolerantly. Especially,women ’s values and social mentality became more open,resulting in the prosperity and diversity of women’s clothing,which could be regarded as the foundation of the trend of Chinese local clothing. This paper explored the development process of typical women’s wear in 1980 s-1990 s. Based on the theory of eclecticism and combined with examples,the expression characteristics of eclectic thought,the internal and external reasons for its formation were analyzed. In addition,this paper rethought the great development of economy and trade integration,stressed the integration of fashion and localization,and paid attention to national culture. The critical compromise is a long-term policy.

关 键 词：改革开放 女装 折衷思想 折衷主义 服饰变迁 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]