领窝结构对衬衫领外观造型的影响  

Effects of the neckline parameters on shirt collar shape

作　　者：朱奕文 屠晔 吴巧英 ZHU Yiwen;TU Ye;WU Qiaoying(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China;School of International Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学国际教育学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第3期50-55,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：浙江省自然科学基金项目(LY17E060007)。

摘　　要：为使衬衫领造型更加美观,针对领窝结构参数,以横开领与横直开领差为自变量,衬衫领造型评价为因变量,采用4×5双因素实验设计,设置了20组不同的横直开领并得到对应的领圈弧线。在此基础上进行衬衫领的结构设计与制作,并对其外观造型进行主、客观评价。确定客观评价指标为:翻领上口空隙量、翻折线夹角、领角线夹角。研究结果表明:横直开领差、横开领对衬衫领外观造型影响显著;横开领与领上口空隙量高度正相关,与造型主观评分值显著负相关,横开领值取7.5~8.0 cm时,衬衫领的领上口合体度较高,造型较为美观;横直开领差与翻折线夹角呈显著正相关,与领角线夹角、造型主观评分值呈显著负相关,横直开领差的值取-0.5~0 cm时,衬衫领的翻折线夹角为115°~120°,领角线夹角为60°~70°,造型较为美观。In order to study the influence of neckline parameters on shirt collar shape, the horizontal open collar and straight open collar difference were taken as the independent variable, and the evaluation of shirt collar shape was taken as the dependent variable. A 4×5 double-factor experimental design was adopted to set up 20 groups of horizontal open collar and the corresponding collar curve was obtained. On this basis, the structure of the shirt collar was designed and produced, and the appearance and shape of the shirt collar were evaluated. Gap in the upper part of lapel, fold line included angle and collar line included angle were determined as objective evaluation indexes. The results showed that influence of the horizontal open collar and horizontal open collar on the appearance of shirt collar is significant. The horizontal open collar was positively correlated with the height of the gap between the collar and the collar gap while significantly negatively correlated with the subjective score value of the shape. When the horizontal open collar value was 7.5-8 cm, the collar gap of the shirt collar was fit and the shape was beautiful. The horizontal open-collar difference was positively correlated with the fold line included angle, negatively correlated with the collar line included angle and the subjective score value of the shape. When the value of horizontal open-collar difference was-0.5-0 cm, the fold line included angle of shirt collar was 115°-120°, and the collar line included angle was 60°-70°, making the shape more beautiful.

关 键 词：衬衫领 横开领 横直开领差 领部造型 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]