云花皱织物的设计与开发  

Design and production of clouds crumpled fabric

作　　者：马昀 MA Yun(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226007,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2020年第1期44-45,49,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：2017年度江苏高校“青蓝工程”资助项目[苏教师(2017)15号];江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心[苏政办2014(22)号];江苏省品牌专业《现代纺织技术》(PPZY2015A093)。

摘　　要：设计与开发了云花皱织物。络筒工序以"高车速、小张力、降毛羽、提产量"为工艺原则;整浆联合工序以"高车速、贴伏毛羽、减磨兼顾增强"为工艺原则;银丝不上浆,按照色经排列要求放在相应的伸缩筘中,并控制好张力;银丝和黑色花式线应穿在规定的综框;织造工序以"高车速、大张力、早开口"为工艺原则。经过对织造准备工序和织造工序的优化使得织造效率达到90%以上,下机一等品率达到93%,入库一等品率达到99%。Clouds crumpled fabric is designed and produced.The principle of winding adopts "high speed,small tension,reducing hairiness and increasing output".The principle of warping-sizing adopts "high speed,hairiness covering,reducing friction and improving strength".Silver yarns without sizing are placed in the corresponding expansion reed according to the arrangement of yarn-dyed warp,and the tension must be controlled.Silver yarns and black novelty yarns should be worn in the prescribed head frame.The principle of weaving adopts "high speed,large tension,earlier open".Through the optimization of various processes,the weaving efficiency could reach above90%,the first-class product rate could reach 93%,and the first-class product rate could reach 99%.

关 键 词：色织物 织物规格 织物结构 络筒 上浆 织造 棉 银丝 

分 类 号：TS106[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]