上衣全开门襟结构制版创新设计与运用  

Innovative Design and Application of the Top Fly Pattern

作　　者：陈娟[1] 

机构地区：[1]江西服装学院工程学院

出　　处：《纺织导报》2020年第3期86-89,共4页China Textile Leader

基　　金：江西省教育厅科学技术研究项目(GJJ181039)。

摘　　要：服装工业化成衣制作主要有服装结构制版、面料排版、批量裁剪、成衣化缝制等工序,其中服装结构制重版的设计影响着后续工序步骤安排,结构制板合理,排版、缝制的工作效果就会更加精准顺畅,产品的质量效果也更优。文章就成衣生产制造时易产生的工艺质量问题进行研究,打破传统服装结构制版的模式及服装排料的方式,通过对前衣片服装结构制版及排版的创新设计,改善及解决门襟高低、左右错位、返工不良等质量问题,提高前片门襟工艺生产效率、降低返工率、改善瓶颈工序、降低生产成本,特别是对特殊花型面料效果更为显著,仅缝制操作就能提升近40%的效率。Industrial-scale garment production mainly includes garment structural plate making,fabric plate arranging,batch cutting,garment sewing,etc.The design of the garment structural plate making affects the subsequent processes.If the garment structural plate making is reasonable,the followed processes will be more accurate and smoother,and the product quality will perform better.The paper studies the process quality problems that are easy to occur in the production and manufacturing of ready to wear,making a breakthrough in the traditional garment structural plate making and the fabric plate arranging.By conducting an innovative design of front bodice plate making and fabric plate arranging,the new design method solves the quality problems such as the different height of the top fly,asymmetrical top fly,and the poor rework,etc.,so as to improve the production efficiency,reduce the rework rate,improve bottleneck process and lower production cost,especially for special pattern fabric,which related sewing operation can improve nearly 40%efficiency.

关 键 词：全开门襟 结构制版 创新设计 

分 类 号：TS941.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]