轻薄孔洞型纬弹毛精纺面料设计  

Design of light worsted fabric with regular holes

作　　者：倪春锋[1] 颜晓青[1] NI Chunfeng;YAN Xiaoqing(Shazhou Institute of Technology,Zhangjiagang 215600,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]沙洲职业工学院,江苏张家港215600

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2020年第3期35-37,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：在轻薄型毛精纺面料的经纬向按一定规律间隔排列水溶性维纶纱,并进行交织,经后整理退维溶解,在面料表面获得规律排列的孔洞效应。阐述了产品技术规格及生产工艺流程,对经纬纱支、维纶纱的水溶温度与间隔根数、织物密度和紧度、后整理退维点选择等进行了优化设计,对主要工序的工艺参数与技术要点进行了说明。测试结果表明,成品各项指标符合产品标准与设计要求。面料孔洞清晰圆整、排列平直,成品呢面整洁、手感滑糯、轻柔飘逸。The regular hole effect on the light worsted fabric could be obtained with water-soluble vinylon yarns interwoven in the warp and weft direction at regular intervals and dissolved in the finishing stage.The technical specifications and production process are described.The yarn count,the water-soluble temperature specifications of vinylon yarns and its arrangement,density and tightness of fabrics,and the finishing point of vinylon dissolution are optimized.The technological parameters and key points of the main processes are explained.The test results show that the finished product has neat face,smooth and waxy handle,light and elegant style,and the holes arranged straight on the fabric are clear and round,which can meet the product standards and design requirements.

关 键 词：毛纺 维纶 纬弹 精纺呢绒 纺纱工艺 织造工艺 

分 类 号：TS106.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]