经起花织物的设计与织造  

Design and Weaving of Warp Figured Fabric

作　　者：高硕 孙润军 GAO Shuo;SUN Run-jun(School of Textile Science and Engineering,Xi'an Polytechnic University,Xi'an 710048,China)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学纺织科学与工程学院,陕西西安710048

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2020年第4期28-30,36,共4页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：经起花织物的织造会采用多组经纱,分为地经和花经,可以通过增加纱线颜色、品种,形成比较清晰、对比明显的花纹,设计出的织物有较好的艺术气息和装饰效果。介绍了经起花织物的设计与织造,地经和花经排列采用1∶1,通过纹样对称法、组织旋转设计法、拼接连续法等图案设计方法,选取33tex涤纶缝纫线进行小样织造。经起花织物的开发充分发挥了多臂织机的作用,扩大织物花型,使其不再局限于小提花织物和基础组织。Warp figured fabric could bewoven with multiple groups ofwarp yarns,which could be divided into ground warp and flower warp.By adding color and variety of yarn,a clear and distinct pattern was formed.The designed fabric had better artistic atmosphere and decorative effect.The design and weaving of warp figured fabric were introduced.The ground warp and flower warp were arranged by 1:1.The 33 tex polyester sewing thread was selected for sample weaving through the pattern design methods such as pattern matching,organization rotation design and stitching continuity.The development of jacquard fabric had given full play to the role of dobby loom in expanding the pattern of fabric,so that it was no longer limited to jacquard fabric and basic organization.

关 键 词：经起花织物 多臂织机 纹样对称 组织旋转 拼接连续 

分 类 号：TS106.599[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]