纺纱方式对织物抗皱性能及拉伸弹性的影响  

Effect of spinning method on wrinkle-resistance and tensile elasticity of fabric

作　　者：苏旭中[1] 魏艳红 刘新金 谢春萍[1] SU Xuzhong;WEI Yanhong;LIU Xinjin;XIE Chunping(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles (Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China;Geron Card Clothing (Jiangsu) Co., Ltd., Nantong, Jiangsu 226143, China)

机构地区：[1]生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学),江苏无锡214122 [2]金轮针布(江苏)有限公司,江苏南通226143

出　　处：《纺织学报》2020年第4期33-38,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200);江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(SJCX180623);江苏省自然科学基金青年基金项目(BK20170169);江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心基金项目(XJFZ/2018/09)。

摘　　要：为开发天然抗皱免烫衬衫面料,探讨纺纱方式对拉伸弹性及抗皱性的影响,用聚酯(PET)长丝与纯棉纱通过全聚纺、全聚纺包芯、全聚赛络纺包芯、全聚赛络纺双丝包芯、全聚纺包芯合股5种纺纱方式,开发了5种线密度为14.8 tex的纱线,并织造了相同规格的5种织物,对织物的抗皱性、尺寸稳定性、刚柔性、拉伸变形性等进行测试与分析。结果表明:纤维的急弹性变形比例、初始模量越大,织物的弹性及折皱回复性越好;纱线的毛羽少、表面光洁、条干均匀、初始模量大,则织物抗皱性好;全聚赛络纺包芯纱、全聚纺包芯双合股纱的抗皱性、尺寸稳定性、拉伸弹性回复性均较好,织物的外观平整度均为3.5级;全聚赛络纺包芯纱比全聚纺包芯纱双合股纱生产流程短,成本低,更适合用于开发高保形免烫衬衫面料。In order to develop natural wrinkle-resistant fabrics,the effect of spinning methods on fabric tensile elasticity and wrinkle-resistance was investigated.In this research,five types of 14.8 tex yarns were prepared using polyester(PET)filament and pure cotton yarn through complete condensing spinning,complete condensing spinning core-spun,complete condensing Siro-spinning core-spun,complete condensing Siro-spinning double-core core-spun and plied yarns.Five types of fabrics of the same specification were woven from these 5 types of yarns.Performances of the five fabrics were evaluated and analyzed for shape retention and deformation resistance,such as wrinkle resistance,dimensional stability,rigid flexibility and tensile deformation.The results show that the greater elastic deformation ratio and initial modulus of the fiber,the better the elasticity of the fabric,and the better the wrinkle recovery of the fabric.When the yarn is less in hairiness,smooth and even in surface,and high in initial modulus,the fabric demonstrates higher wrinkle resistance.The complete condensing Siro-spinning core-spun yarn and plied yarns show good wrinkle resistance,dimensional stability and tensile elastic recovery and crisp,and the apparent flatness grade of fabrics both is 3.5.Compared with the plied yarn,the production process of complete condensing Siro-spinning core-spun is short and the cost is low,and therefore it is more suitable for the preparation of high shape retention care-free shirt fabrics.

关 键 词：保形性 抗皱性 折皱回复角 折皱回复率 初始模量 全聚纺 免烫衬衫面料 

分 类 号：TS116[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]