面料及运动速度对连衣裙三围形态的影响  

Effect of fabrics and moving speed on bustline,waistline and hipline shapes of one-piece dresses

作　　者：陈丽丽[1] 刘成霞[2] CHEN Lili;LIU Chengxia(Yuanpei College, Shaoxing University, Shaoxing, Zhejiang 312000, China;School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China)

机构地区：[1]绍兴文理学院元培学院,浙江绍兴312000 [2]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2020年第4期135-141,共7页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：为研究不同面料和运动速度对服装造型的影响规律,选取身材相似的3名受试者和5种常见面料,按照受试者尺寸制作成连衣裙,利用三维动作捕捉仪获取受试者着装状态下,不同运动速度时连衣裙胸围、腰围和臀围表面的坐标点,通过曲线拟合得到三围曲线,并提取曲线面积、曲线周长、横向距离和纵向距离4个参数,作为客观评价连衣裙外观形态的参数。研究得出:面料和运动速度对连衣裙的4个参数均具有显著影响,其中对腰围参数的影响最大,其次为臀围,最后是胸围;短纤纱等不易变形的织物形成的胸围曲线较小,腰围和臀围曲线较大,且三围形态不易受运动速度的影响。In order to investigate the effect of fabrics and moving speed on garment silhouette,3 subjects with similar figures and 5 commonly used fabrics were selected for the study of one-piece dresses according to the subjects′body dimensions.A three-dimensional motion capture instrument was employed to obtain the coordinate points of the bustline,waistline and hipline when the 3 subjects were wearing the dresses at the different moving speed.By using a curve fitting method,the curves of the bustline,waistline and hipline were acquired and the curve area,curve circumference,transverse and longitudinal distances were obtained as the objective parameters of the dress silhouette.Results show that both fabrics and moving speed have significant influence on the 4 parameters of the dress,of which the effect on the parameters of wastline is the highest,with the hipline the middle and the bustline the lowest.Fabrics made of deformable yarns tend to have smaller bustline,and larger waistline and hipline.Besides,their bustline,waistline and hipline shapes are not easily influenced by moving speed.

关 键 词：面料 运动速度 服装造型 三围形态 动作捕捉 连衣裙 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]