茶花油功能性针织内衣面料的开发  

Development of Camellia Oil Fiber Knitted Functional Underwear Fabric

作　　者：白蕊 陈林云 吴玉峰 黄小云 Bai Rui;Chen Linyun;Wu Yufeng;Huang Xiaoyun(Beijing TopNew Group Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 100026,China)

机构地区：[1]北京铜牛集团有限公司,北京100026

出　　处：《针织工业》2020年第4期5-8,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：“北京市科委”“设计之都”建设专项课题资助项目(Z17111000240000)。

摘　　要：采用9.8 tex(60S)的茶花油纤维、艾草纤维、德绒纤维混纺纱(25∶25∶50)和2.2 tex(20 D)氨纶交织,在32针/25.4 mm的日本福原双面机上,开发茶花油弹力棉毛面料和茶花油抽针棉毛面料。详细介绍面料的设计思路、原料选择、编织工艺和染整工艺,提出编织过程中要注意氨纶丝翻丝问题,并采用复合茶皂素前处理工艺,简化染整工艺路线,缩短面料高温湿热过程。同时,对面料的抗菌性、保湿性、保暖性、透气性等功能性指标进行测试。结果表明,开发的茶花油功能针织面料具有显著的保暖及天然抗菌亲肤效果,是开发功能性健康内衣休闲产品的理想面料。Camellia oil fiber knitted elastic interlock fabric and needle-out interlock fabric were developed by using 9.8 tex(60S)camellia oil fiber,artemisia argyi fiber and dralon■ fiber blended yarn(25∶25∶50)and 2.2 tex(20 D)spandex interknitting on Fuyuan G32 double-sided circular knitting machine.The design idea,raw material selection,knitting process,dyeing and finishing process were introduced in detail.It put forward that the spandex knocking over defect should be paid attention to and the pretreatment process of slow release compound tea saponin was adopted to simplify the process and reduce the high temperature and wet heat process.And the antibacterial property,moisture retention property,warmth retention property and air permeability of the fabric were tested.The results show that the developed camellia oil fiber knitted functional knitted fabric has remarkable warmth retention and natural antibacterial and skin-affinity effect,which is an ideal fabric for developing functional health underwear leisure products.

关 键 词：针织内衣面料 茶花油纤维 艾草纤维 德绒纤维 抗菌性 保暖性 透气性 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]