基于芦山纱特征的三绞三罗织物性能分析及试织  

Performance analysis and trial weaving of "Three-Twists-Three" Luo fabric based on the characteristics of Lushan yarn

作　　者：李天舒 朱忠强 陈敬星 周小红[1] LI Tianshu;ZHU Zhongqiang;CHEN Jingxing;ZHOU Xiaohong(College of Textiles Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Huzhou Yongchang Silk Co.,Ltd.,Huzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018 [2]湖州永昌丝绸有限公司,浙江湖州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第5期20-24,共5页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：芦山纱织物表面均匀分布稳定清晰的纱孔,呈现若隐若现的亮点而独具特色。文章对芦山纱独特的二绞二罗组织的结构进行了分析,研究了织物表面的细小纱孔和独特亮点等特征,并基于芦山纱以基础组织为地、罗组织为花的组织特征,进一步采用棉纱作经纬原料,以变化斜纹组织为地组织,三绞三罗组织为提花组织,研制了三绞三罗织物。根据不同经纬线密度的配置试织试样,对其进行织物悬垂性、折皱回复性、拉伸性能的测试。结果表明,经纬原料线密度配置与罗组织分布对织物的抗折皱性和拉伸强力具有一定的影响。The fabric surface of Lushan yarn is evenly distributed with stable and clear yarn holes as well as looming bright spots. The article analyzes the structure of Lushan yarn’s unique "Two-Twist-Two" Luo weave,and studies the characteristics of fine yarn holes and unique highlights on the surface of the fabric. Based on the characteristics of the Lushan yarn which regards the basic weave as the ground and the Luo weave as the flower,the "Three-Twist-Three" Luo weave was developed by using cotton yarn as the warp and weft material,the variation twill weave as the ground structure,and "ThreeTwist-Three" Luo weave as a jacquard structure,and a three twists three Luo weave fabric was developed. The samples were woven according to different warp and weft density configurations to test the fabric drapability,wrinkle recovery and tensile properties. The results show that the linear density distribution of the warp and weft raw materials and the distribution of the Luo weave have a certain influence on the wrinkle resistance and tensile strength of the fabric.

关 键 词：芦山纱 纱罗织物 绞经工艺 真丝织物 罗组织 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]