清代女性服装的缘饰艺术探究  

Analysis of the decorative art of women’s clothing in Qing dynasty

作　　者：王巧[1] 宋柳叶 李正[3] WANG Qiao;SONG Liuye;LI Zheng(Applied Technology College,Soochow University,Suzhou 215123,China;Institute of Art Media,HefeiNormal University,Hefei 230601,China;School of Art,Soochow University,Suzhou 215123,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学应用技术学院,江苏苏州215325 [2]合肥师范学院艺术传媒学院,合肥230601 [3]苏州大学艺术学院,江苏苏州215123

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第5期96-101,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省高校哲学社会科学研究基金项目(2018SJA2248);江苏省“青蓝工程”优秀教学团队项目(苏教师〔2018〕12号)。

摘　　要：清代女性服饰经历了从满汉各异到满汉交融的历史发展阶段,缘饰艺术发展至顶峰。文章以文献研究为基础,通过实地调研深入探究中国丝绸博物馆、苏州丝绸博物馆、东华大学纺织服饰博物馆的清代女性服装,以缘饰为切入点,以案例分析、比较分析、复原设计等形式进行缘饰艺术特征、文化内涵研究。研究表明:清代女性服装所特有宽窄缘饰的错落镶嵌中具有以如意云纹、镶滚工艺与花式绦子边为代表的程式化符号,共同奠定了服装的基本骨架,它不仅具有吉祥文化内涵,同时也继承了中国人的线性审美思维,能够为当今服装的文化及设计研究提供思维借鉴与艺术载体。Women’s clothing in Qing dynasty experienced a historical development stage from the variation to the integration of Man and Han,and the art of fringes developed to the peak. Based on the literature research,this paper makes an in-depth study on the Qing dynasty women’s clothing of China Silk Museum,Suzhou Silk Museum and Donghua University Textile Clothing Museum through field investigation. Starting from the fringes,the paper studies the artistic characteristics and cultural connotation of the fringes in the form of case analysis,comparative analysis and restoration design. The research shows that in the inlay of the unique wide and narrow fringes of the Qing dynasty women’s clothing,there are stylized symbols represented by Ruyi cloud pattern,inlay rolling process and fancy tapestry edge,which together lay the basic framework of the clothing. It not only has auspicious cultural connotation,but also inherits the linear aesthetic thinking of Chinese people,which can provide the thinking reference and art carrier for the current clothing culture and design research.

关 键 词：清代 女性服装 缘饰 艺术特征 文化内涵 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]