清代暖耳形制与纹样艺术特征研究  

Study on art characteristics of warm ear shape and pattern in the Qing dynasty

作　　者：姚艳菁 王宏付 YAO Yanjing;WANG Hongfu(College of Textiles and Clothing,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第5期102-108,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社科基金项目(09YJA760013);江苏省2014年度普通高校研究生科研创新计划项目(KYZZ-0316);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发〔2014〕37号)。

摘　　要：暖耳作为民间传统服饰配件对其历史发展有非常重要的引导作用,暖耳的形制起初局限于兽类皮毛,后历经朝代的更替发展和专制主义思想禁锢的解放,到清代逐步建立暖耳形制。文章以文献资料为背景进行深入研究,对暖耳的起源、形制艺术、纹样图案及寓意性进行综述。暖耳从御寒保暖的功能实用性特点到富有文化寓意的装饰性特点,装饰技法上以刺绣、拼接及各种缘饰艺术最为突出,其题材寓意丰富多样,不单只描述事物本身的含义,同时运用各种手法表达事物深层化特殊属性,展现出民间手工艺人的独具匠心,有利于提高对传统审美文化与装饰艺术的启发。As a traditional folk costume accessory,the warm ear has a very important guiding role in its historical development. At first,the shape of the warm ear was limited to the animal skin. After the dynasty’s replacement development and the liberation of the authoritarianism,the shape of warm ear was gradually established until Qing dynasty. This paper conducts an in-depth study based on the literature,and summarizes the origin,shape art,pattern and implied meaning of the warm ear. The warm ear is characterized by the functional and practical features of keeping warm as well as the decorative features of cultural meaning. The decorative techniques are most prominent in embroidery,splicing and various decorative arts. The implied meanings of the themes are rich and varied,not only describing the meaning of the thing itself. At the same time,various techniques are used to express the deep special attributes of things. It shows the unique craftsmanship of folk craftsmen and enhances the inspiration of traditional aesthetic culture and decorative art.

关 键 词：暖耳 形制 纹样 图案寓意 装饰 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]