精纺山羊绒针织衫鸡爪痕成因分析及其生产质量控制  

Formation and production quality control of chicken feet mark in worsted cashmere sweater

作　　者：陈前维 王海霞 李国萍[1] 白亚斌 李发洲 CHEN Qianwei;WANG Haixia;LI Guoping;BAI Yabin;LI Fazhou(Ningxia Polytechnic College,Yinchuan,Ningxia 750021,China;Ningxia Zhongyin Cashmere Co.,Ltd.,Lingwu,Ningxia 750400,China)

机构地区：[1]宁夏职业技术学院,宁夏银川750021 [2]宁夏中银绒业股份有限公司,宁夏灵武750400

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第5期13-17,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：宁夏高等学校科学技术研究项目(NGY2018-187)。

摘　　要：从原料、纱线结构、织物结构、加工工艺和生产设备5个方面,对精纺山羊绒针织衫鸡爪痕疵点形成的原因进行分析;研究生产工艺流程、原料选配、纺纱工艺、染色加工、织造和后整理的生产加工技术,开发出20.83 tex×2抗鸡爪痕精纺羊绒针织衫。研究表明:原料性能、纱线捻度与合股数、织物组织与密度、后整理和梳理强度是精纺羊绒针织衫鸡爪痕疵点成因的主要因素;生产过程中可以增加养生、蒸纱、洗纱和生坯熨烫等工序;优化技术方案需综合考虑生产效率、产品颜色、手感和生产成本等多个因素。The formation of chicken feet mark in worsted cashmere sweater was analyzed from raw material,yarn structure,fabric structure,production technique and production equipment,and a new type of 20.83 tex×2 worsted cashmere sweater with chicken feet mark resist property was designed by optimizing the process flow,material selection,worsted spinning process,dyeing,knitting and finishing systematically.The results showed that material property,yarn twist and ply,fabric structure and density,finishing and carding were the primary reasons to resist chicken feet mark in worsted cashmere sweater.The production efficiency,change in color,hand feeling,cost of production should be controlled and the technical scheme should be optimized because the addition of the yarn keeping,steaming,washing and raw fabric ironing in the processing.

关 键 词：山羊绒 针织衫 鸡爪痕 精纺 

分 类 号：TS131.[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]