指甲花杆色素的提取及其对羊毛织物的染色  

Extraction and dyeing of henna dyestuff for wool fabric

作　　者：黄艳 阎克路[1,2] 李戎 纪柏林[1,2] 胡春艳 HUANG Yan;YAN Kelu;LI Rong;JI Bolin;HU Chunyan(College of Chemistry,Chemical Engineering and Biotechnology,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;National Engineering Research Cente)

机构地区：[1]东华大学化学化工与生物工程学院,上海201620 [2]国家染整工程技术研究中心,上海201620

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第5期23-26,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2016YFC0400504);中国博士后基金面上项目(2017M611419)。

摘　　要：针对天然植物染料色素的提取存在提取效率低及对环境造成污染的问题,通过采用亚临界水提取法对指甲花杆色素进行提取,达到高效绿色环保的目的。进一步对羊毛织物进行染色、抗菌及抗紫外线实验,研究提取温度、时间和指甲花杆粉末用量对提取液吸光度的影响,得到最佳提取工艺。将提取液应用于羊毛织物的染色,测试染色后羊毛织物的K/S值、耐干湿摩擦色牢度和耐皂洗色牢度;并对染色前后羊毛织物的抗菌及抗紫外线性能进行研究。结果表明:4 g指甲花杆粉末在140℃条件下经过提取15 min后得到的提取液吸光度最高,为最佳提取条件。在染色温度100℃、染色时间50 min,染液pH值为4.0时对羊毛织物进行直接染色,染色后织物的K/S值为10,UPF值为468;该织物对微生物有一定的抑制性。In view of the problems of low extraction efficiency and environmental pollution in the extraction of natural dyestuffs,the extraction of henna root pigment by subcritical water extraction was carried out to achieve the goal of high efficiency and environmental protection.Dyeing,anti-bacterial and anti-ultraviolet experiments were carried out on wool fabrics.The effects of extraction temperature,time and amount of henna powder on the absorbance was studied to obtain the best extraction process.The K/S value,resistance to dry and wet rubbing and color fastness to washing were also tested.Moreover,the anti-bacterial and anti-ultraviolet properties of wool fabric before and after dyeing were focused on.The results showed that the best extraction condition was 4 g henna powder treated at 140℃for 15 min.The wool fabric was dyed directly at dyeing temperature of 100℃for 50 min with the pH value of 4.0.Fabric′s K/S value was 10 with the UPF value of 468,it was found that pigment of henna imparted wool fabric certain inhibition to microorganism after dyeing.

关 键 词：指甲花杆 羊毛 亚临界水提取 染色 

分 类 号：TS193[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程] TQ611[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]