经编双针床纱架贾卡提花鞋材工艺研究  

Knitting Technology of Double Needle Bar Creel Jacquard Shoe Upper

作　　者：高雅 蒋高明[1] 张燕婷 张爱军 Gao Ya;Jiang Gaoming;Zhang Yanting;Zhang Aijun(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2020年第5期19-22,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：湖北省纺织新材料及其应用国家重点实验室(DTL2017009);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金-重点(JUSRP51727A);无锡市针织科技服务平台(WX03-07D0304-021700-06)。

摘　　要：为减轻传统双针床贾卡提花鞋材的克质量以及创新丰富其提花效应,提出一种在通过纱架供纱的双针床单贾卡经编机上编织提花鞋材的方法。针对不同机型经编机的梳栉配置,分析传统双针床单贾卡和双贾卡提花鞋材的编织原理和结构特征,以及双针床纱架贾卡提花鞋材的成形原理。以RDPJ6/1型双针床经编机为例,研究由纱架供纱的贾卡装置的提花原理,提出包括鞋面样板设计、贾卡花型设计和工艺参数设置的经编双针床纱架贾卡提花鞋材的设计方法,并实现产品织造,为同类产品的研发提供一定的参考。In order to reduce the weight and enrich the jacquard effects of traditional warp knitted jacquard shoe upper, a new method using double needle bar single jacquard warp knitting machine with creel yarn feeding is proposed. According to the arrangement of guide bars of different warp knitting machines, the knitting principle and structural characteristics of traditional double needle bar single jacquard and double jacquard shoe materials,and the forming principle of double needle bar creel jacquard shoe uppers are analyzed. Taking the case of RDPJ6/1 double needle bar warp knitting machine as an example, the jacquard principle of jacquard device from creel yarn feeding is studied in depth, and the design method of warp knitted double needle bar creel jacquard shoe upper is put forward, which includes jacquard pattern design and process parameters setting. This study can provide theoretical references for the research and development of similar products.

关 键 词：经编 贾卡提花 鞋面 纱架供纱 双针床单贾卡经编机 工艺设计 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]