棉针织物栀子黄天然染料染色工艺探讨  

Dyeing of Cotton Knitting Fabric with Gardenia Yellow Natural Dye

作　　者：吉海东 朱文举 欧阳非凡 汪诗雨 蔡映杰[2,3] 吴济宏[2] Ji Haidong;Zhu Wenju;Ouyang Feifan;Wang Shiyu;Cai Yingjie;Wu Jihong(Gaomi Fuyuan Dyeing and Printing Co.,Ltd.,Gaomi,Shandong 261500,China;Hubei Provincial Engineering Laboratory for Clean Production and High Value Utilization of Bio-Based Textile Materials,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430200,China;Engineering Research Centre for Clean Production of Textile Dyeing and Printing,Ministry of Education,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430200,China)

机构地区：[1]高密市富源印染有限公司,山东高密261500 [2]武汉纺织大学生物基纺织材料清洁生产与高值利用湖北省工程实验室,湖北武汉430200 [3]武汉纺织大学纺织印染清洁生产教育部工程研究中心,湖北武汉430200

出　　处：《针织工业》2020年第5期47-51,共5页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：文中采用栀子黄-十甲基环戊硅氧烷染色微乳液对棉针织布进行浸染染色,探讨栀子黄-十甲基环戊硅氧烷染色微乳液中含水量、染色时间、染色温度和染料用量对竭染率的影响。结果表明,含水量100%,染色时间30 min,染色温度90℃,染料用量3%为最佳的染色条件,竭染率达到94.2%。随后对上染的棉针织布采用阳离子固色剂-十甲基环戊硅氧烷固色微乳液进行固色,其固色效率达到95.2%,总固色率达到89.7%,远优于水介质中的染色效果。固色后有色针织布的耐水洗色牢度、耐干湿摩擦色牢度为4级以上,优于水介质染色的色牢度。Cotton knitted fabrics were exhaust dyed in a gardenia yellow/decamethylcyclopentasiloxane dye microemulsion, the water content, dyeing time, dyeing temperature, and dye mass were investigated on the influence of dye exhaustion percentage. The results show that 100% o.m.f water content, 30 min dyeing time, 90 ℃ dyeing temperature, and 3% o.m.f dye mass were the optimum dyeing conditions, and the dye exhaustion percentage was up to 94.2%. Subsequently the dyed cotton knitted fabrics were treated in a cationic fixing agent/decamethylcyclopentasiloxane fixation microemulsion to fix the gardenia yellow natural dye;the fixation rate was 95.2%, and the total fixation rate was 89.7%, which was better than that of dyeing in water. After fixation treatment, the wash fastness, dry and wet rubbing fastness were grade 4, or above, which were better than those of dyeing in water.

关 键 词：棉针织物 桅子黄天然染料 十甲基环戊硅氧烷 微乳 竭染 耐水洗色牢度 摩擦色牢度 

分 类 号：TS193.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]