5种整理方式对棉织物风格的影响  

Influence of Five Finishing Method on Cotton Fabric Style

作　　者：杨红英[1] 张家耀 张建祥 耿彩花 杨志晖[1] YANG Hongying;ZHANG Jiayao;ZHANG Jianxiang;GENG Caihua;YANG Zhihui(Zhongyuan University of Technology,Henan Zhengzhou,450007;Lutai Textile Co.,Ltd.,Shandong Zibo,255100)

机构地区：[1]中原工学院,河南郑州450007 [2]鲁泰纺织股份有限公司,山东淄博255100

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2020年第7期26-29,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：中原工学院交叉学科团队支持计划项目资助(中工研〔2018〕13号)。

摘　　要：探讨5种整理方式对纯棉织物风格的影响。对5种不同组织规格的纯棉机织物分别进行柔软、免烫、液氨柔软、液氨免烫、液氨潮交联整理,然后采用PhabrOmeter织物风格仪测试各面料褶皱恢复性、悬垂性、挠度、软度和滑度。结果表明:5种整理方式均提高了织物的柔软性、悬垂性和抗皱性,液氨和潮交联能显著提升整理效果,而液氨潮交联整理可获得柔软抗皱性能最佳的纯棉面料。认为:PhabrOmeter织物风格仪用于织物风格相关研究具有明显的优势。The influence of five finishing methods on the pure cotton fabric styles were discussed.The pure cot⁃ton woven fabric with five different texture specifications were finished by softening,non-ironing,softening with liquid ammonia,non-ironing with liquid ammonia and moist crosslinking finishing with liquid ammonia respectively.Then,the wrinkle recovery,drapability,deflection,softness and smoothness of each fabric were tested by PhabrOmeter fabric style tester.The test results showed that the softness,drapability and anti-wrinkle property of fabrics were all improved by the five finishing methods.Liquid ammonia and moist crosslinking could improve the finishing effect obviously while liquid ammonia crosslink finishing could obtain the pure cotton fabric with the best softening and anti-wrinkle property.It is considered that PhabrOmeter fabric style tester has obvious advantages on the fabric style related study.

关 键 词：后整理 织物风格 褶皱恢复率 潮交联 PhabrOmeter 抗皱性能 

分 类 号：TS195.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]