单面纯羊毛绒面织物布边毡化问题分析及其对策  

Analysis and countermeasures of edge felting problem of single-sided pure wool pile fabric

作　　者：王文志[1] 张淑梅[1] 徐霞红 王西凤 WANG Wenzhi;ZHANG Shumei;XU Xiahong;WANG Xifeng(Yantai Nanshan University,Yantai,Shandong 265700,China;Shandong Nanshan Fabrics&Garments Co.,Ltd.,Yantai,Shandong 265700,China)

机构地区：[1]烟台南山学院,山东烟台265700 [2]山东南山纺织服饰有限公司,山东烟台265700

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第7期50-53,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：山东省优势特色专业项目(SDYS201501)。

摘　　要：针对单面纯羊毛绒面织物下机后布边易卷边、折边、转边,经洗呢、蒸呢后易出现布边毡化问题,分析材料性能、织物结构、布边组织、布边宽度及布边紧度等因素对布边毡化的影响及解决措施。通过将布边组织由2/1经重平组织改为2/2方平组织;增加布边宽度及布边紧度;布边经纱由纯毛纱改为毛/涤(50/50)混纺纱;布边经纱线密度由12.8 tex×2改为14.3 tex×2,可使单面纯羊毛绒面织物的卷边、折边、转边及布边毡化现象大大减少,改善工艺后所得织物的布边平整、美观。For single-sided pure wool pile fabric,the selvages of the fabric are easily rolled,folded and turned.After scouring and decating,the selvages are likely to felt.The reasons related to the above problems and its influencing factors were analyzed.The felting of selvages is related to the weave structures,fiber material,width and tightness of the selvages.These problems can be solved by changing the weave structure of selvages from 2/1 oxford to 2/2 basket structure,the material of selvages from pure wool yarn to 50/50 wool/polyester blended yarn and the yarn density of selvages from 12.8 tex×2 to 14.3 tex×2,which can greatly reduce the rolling,folding,turning and felting of the single-sided pure wool pile fabric,and make the selvages of the fabric flat and beautiful after the improvement of the process.

关 键 词：羊毛织物 绒面织物 布边毡化 布边宽度 织物结构 布边紧度 

分 类 号：TS193.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]