桑蚕丝/胶原蛋白锦纶丝交织物的性能研究  

Study on the properties of silk and collagen nylon mixed fabric

作　　者：郭晓晓 张红霞[1] 祝成炎[1] 田伟[1] 劳嘉泳 沈红卫 王国夫 GUO Xiaoxiao;ZHANG Hongxia;ZHU Chengyan;TIAN Wei;LAO Jiayong;SHENG Hongwei;WANG Guofu(National Engineering Lab for Textile Fiber Materials and Processing Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Jiaxin Silk Co.,Ltd.,Jiaxing 314000,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织纤维材料与加工技术国家地方联合工程实验室,杭州310018 [2]浙江嘉欣丝绸股份有限公司,浙江嘉兴314000

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第7期15-18,共4页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省重点技术创新专项(浙教办函〔2018〕275号);浙江省“十三五”省级大学生校外实践教育基地项目(浙教办函〔2019〕311号)。

摘　　要：为探讨交织比例对织物性能的影响,以桑蚕丝作为经纱原料,胶原蛋白锦纶长丝和桑蚕丝作为纬纱原料,试织9种组织相同、纬纱比例不同的交织物,测试织物折皱回复性、耐磨性、悬垂性、抗起毛起球、透气性等性能,并利用模糊数学定理对织物的各项测试性能进行综合分析。经过对测试数据的分析表明:胶原蛋白锦纶长丝含量对织物折皱回复性、耐磨性、悬垂性、抗起毛起球性和透气性有不同程度的影响。当胶原蛋白锦纶长丝和桑蚕丝的交织比例为1︰3时,织物的综合性能最优,为开发胶原蛋白锦纶纤维产品提供一定的理论依据。To explore the influence of composite interweaving process on the properties,silk was used as the warp material,collagen nylon and silk were used as the weft yarn materials.We have designed and developed 9 kinds of mixed fabrics with same weave and different weft yarn ratio.Meanwhile,the draping,pilling resistance,air permeability,thermal transitivity,wrinkle recovery performance,wear resistance of all the 9 fabrics were tested.And the comprehensive evaluation method of fuzzy mathematics was used selected to analyze.The results showed that collagen nylon filament content has different effects on fabric wrinkle recovery,abrasion resistance,drape,pilling resistance and gas permeability.When the collagen nylon and silk is 1︰3,the overall performance of the fabric is best.

关 键 词：胶原蛋白锦纶纤维 桑蚕丝 交织物 服用性能 模糊数学 

分 类 号：TS145.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]