贵州民间剪纸纹样的研究及其在织物上的创新设计  

Study on the pattern of Guizhou folk paper-cut and its’innovative design on fabrics

作　　者：薛雯 胡云中泽 汤琳 詹宇婷 祝成炎[1] 张红霞[1] XUE Wen;HU Yunzhongze;TANG Lin;ZHAN Yuting;ZHU Chengyan;ZHANG Hongxia(National Engineering Lab for Textile Fiber Materials and Processing Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第7期111-116,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省“十三五”省级产学合作协同育人项目(浙教办函〔2019〕365号);浙江省高等教育“十三五”第二批教学改革研究项目(jg20190135)。

摘　　要：文章以贵州省各少数民族具有典型代表性的剪纸纹样为研究对象,追溯贵州少数民族传统剪纸纹样的形成渊源及其特殊寓意,探索已有的剪纸风格织物的运用工艺方法。研究发现:世界各地对剪纸风格在织物上的运用大致可分为基于加法原理的应用、减法原理的应用和印花的方式,大多摒弃了传统的纹样图案,以一种现代化的设计语言体现在织物上,但传统的刺绣手法在现在的设计中仍有较多体现。研究对于传承和保护贵州传统剪纸技艺,传播少数民族文化具有一定的现实意义,也为现代剪纸风格的织物图案设计和工艺方法提供参考借鉴。The typical paper-cut patterns of ethnic minorities in Guizhou province were taken as the research object.Through the field investigation and the related literature,the authors traced the formation origin of the traditional paper-cut patterns of the ethnic groups in Guizhou province and their special implications,and exploredthe techniques of existing paper-cut styles.It is found that the application of paper-cut styles in the world can be divided into the application based on addition principle,the application based on subtraction principle and the way of printing,most of which discard the traditional patterns and reflected in the fabric in a modern design language,but the traditional embroidery techniques are still reflected in the current design.The study is of practical significance for the inheritance and protection of Guizhou traditional paper-cut techniques and the dissemination of ethnic culture,and also provides reference for the design and process of fabric pattern with modern paper-cut style.

关 键 词：贵州剪纸 传统纹样 烂花工艺 热转移印花 民间艺术 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS938.2