基于形态分析的男性户外登山服结构设计  

Structure design of men’s mountaineer garment based on morphological analysis

作　　者：周幸子 王朝晖 张龙琳[2] 李琴[2] ZHOU Xingzi;WANG Zhaohui;ZHANG Longlin;LI Qin(Fashion&Art Design Institute,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;College ofTextile Garment,Southwest University,Chongqing 400715,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海210051 [2]西南大学纺织服装学院,重庆400715

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第7期117-122,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金项目(2232020G-08)。

摘　　要：为了优化登山服结构,首先参考登山动作,结合人体五大关节的运动特点,确定了20种实验姿势。基于人体工效学理论,进行体表尺寸变化实验,获得各实验姿势下关键部位的皮肤变化特点及形变率。其次利用专家估测法对实验姿势进行权重分析,计算各姿势影响下关键部位的加权体表形变率。最后分析体表形变对登山服松量、制版参数、款式及面料设计的影响,绘制优化的175/95A男性H型登山服样板,进行成衣制作与试穿。文章提出了一种将体表形变数据运用于登山服结构设计的方法,以提高其动态舒适性和自由度。To optimize the structure of men’s mountaineer garment,first of all,20 experimental gestures were defined according to gestures during climbing mountains and the movement characteristics of five joints.Based on the theory of human engineering,a body surface scale change experiment was carried out in this study to gain skin change characteristics and deformation rates in key areas under different gestures.Then expert evaluation method was used to carry out weight analysis of experimental gestures,and weighted body surface deformation rates of key parts under various gestures were calculated.Finally,the effects of body surface deformation on margin of mountaineer garment,platemaking parameters,style and fabric design were investigated,and optimized male 175/95A H-shaped mountaineer garment model was drawn for garment making and fitting.This paper presents a method for applying body surface deformation data in the design of functional mountaineer garment,which could improve dynamic comfort and freedom of men’s mountaineer garment.

关 键 词：登山服 体表变化 松量设计 样板设计 款式设计 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]