贵州荔波长衫瑶女子服饰结构分析与改良  

Analysis and Improvement on Clothing Structure of Women for Changshanyao, in Libo County, Guizhou Province

作　　者：李奇菊[1] 张亚 李亚星[1] 程潇[1] LI Qi-ju;ZHANG Ya;LI Yang-xing;CHENG Xiao(College of Fashion and Textile,Southwest University,Chongqing 400716,China)

机构地区：[1]西南大学纺织服装学院,重庆400716

出　　处：《西南大学学报（自然科学版）》2020年第8期149-157,共9页Journal of Southwest University(Natural Science Edition)

基　　金：重庆市社会科学规划项目(2014YBYS100)。

摘　　要：长衫瑶是贵州荔波3个瑶族支系中的一支,由于长期居住在大山阻隔的喀斯特地貌环境,其民族文化仍保持着原始古朴的远古遗风和极具特色的服饰文化.但在田野调研中发现,由于结构原因,存在女子穿的贯首衣让其颈部不舒适和"瑶王印"图案不能很好地呈现等问题.通过对长衫瑶女子服饰的结构进行解析,绘制了结构图和平面款式图;根据服装结构的构成方法,在保留服饰文化内涵、风格造型和裁剪方式的基础上进行结构改良,增强服用性能,使传统服饰更美观和舒适,从而有利于民族服饰的传承与发展.Changshanyao in Libo County,Guizhou Province is one of the three Yao ethnic branches.Because of long-term living in the Karst geomorphological environment separated by mountains,its ethnic culture still maintains the primitive ancient relics and unique costume culture.However,in the field research,it has been found that,due to structural reasons,the intersecting coat would make their neck uncomfortable and"Yao King seal"pattern could not be well presented.In this paper,the structure of Changshanyao women’s clothing has been analyzed,and the figures of structure and style been drawn.The structure of Changshanyao women’s clothing is improved on the basis of retaining its cultural connotation,style modeling,and cutting methods etc,so as to enhance its wearing performance and make its traditional clothing more beautiful and comfortable,that is beneficial to the inheritance and development of unique costume.

关 键 词：长衫瑶 贯首衣 服饰结构 改良 

分 类 号：TS941.742.8[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]