全成形西服横向编织技术的工艺模型与实现  

Research and implementation of flat-bed knitting process model of fully formed suit

作　　者：刘博 丛洪莲 LIU Bo;CONG Honglian(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2020年第7期53-58,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61602212);江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2018056)。

摘　　要：为深入研究全成形西服工艺,针对纵向编织方法难以实现复杂结构款型西服制作的问题,提出将西服沿背中线分解为左右2片分别进行编织再下机缝合的制作方法。根据四针床全成形横向编织工艺模型,从全成形服装的横向编织原理、成形方法出发,按照工艺模型设定上机参数并试织,实现了全成形西服的横向编织。研究结果表明:西服横向分片编织方法具有可行性,其中西服后领和背中线需要下机后缝合,此方法可实现前后片不同结构尺寸的T形、X形等廓形变化的西服款式,同时还能形成领部和门襟处的双面双层结构以及背中线、侧缝线结构,增加了西服的挺括性。In order to further study the process of fully formed suit,and to solve the problem that the conventional circular knitting method is difficult to produce suits with complex structures and styles,this paper proposed a method for fully formed suits by decomposing a suit along the back midline into left and right pieces for knitting and stitching.The flat-bed knitting method was investigated into based on a four-needle bed flat knitting machine.Started from the flat-bed knitting principle and method,the parameters were set according to the process model,and then the design of a full-form suit was implemented.The results show that the flat-bad knitting method is feasible,in which the back collar and the back center of the suit need to be stitched off the machine,and the T-shaped,X-shaped and other wide-shaped suit styles with different structural sizes of the front and back were realized using this method.The double-sided double-layer structures for the collar and the placket,the back center line,the side suture can also be formed at the same time to increase the suitability of the suit.

关 键 词：全成形西服 四针床电脑横机 横向编织 工艺模型 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]