异经异纬色织柳条绉织物的开发与生产  

Development and production of different warp and weft yarn-dyed wicker crepe

作　　者：常彤 CHANG Tong(Qiqihar University,Heilongjiang 161000,Qiqihar,China)

机构地区：[1]齐齐哈尔大学,黑龙江齐齐哈尔161000

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2020年第7期36-37,共2页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：黑龙江省省属本科高校基本科研业务费青年创新人才项目(135409237);黑龙江省高等教育教学改革研究一般项目(SJGY20190735)。

摘　　要：设计开发了异经异纬色织柳条绉织物,经纱采用低特棉股线与高特苎麻纱,纬纱采用原色黏胶短纤纱与强捻涤纶短纤纱,再经合理组织结构设计与色彩搭配,充分发挥了4种原料的优势,体现出织物的柳条绉纹效应。详细介绍了该织物的产品设计过程,并对络筒、整经、浆纱、纬纱准备及剑杆织造等主要生产工序进行工艺分析与设计,确保织物顺利投产。织造效率达到85%以上,下机一等品率为78%。The yarn-dyed wicker crepe fabrics with different warp and weft are developed,and the low special cotton strand yarn and high special ramie yarn are used as warp yarn,and primary viscose staple yarn and strong twisted polyester staple yarn are used as the weft yarn.Through rational structure design and color matching,the advantages of four raw materials can give full play and show the style of wicker crepe effect of the fabric.The product design process of the fabric is introduced in detail,and the main production processes such as winding,warping,sizing,weft preparation and rapier weaving are analyzed and designed to ensure smooth commissioning.The weaving efficiency can reach more than 85%and the first-class product rate is upto 78%.

关 键 词：色织物 织物结构 设计 异经异纬 柳条绉 生产工艺 

分 类 号：TS106[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]