纯棉色织仿丝绸织物的设计与生产  

Design and production of pure cotton yarn-dyed silk-like fabric

作　　者：马顺彬 MA Shunbin(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226007,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2020年第7期38-40,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：2017年度江苏高校“青蓝工程”资助项目[苏教师(2017)15号];江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心[苏政办2014(22)号];江苏省品牌专业《现代纺织技术》(PPZY2015A093)。

摘　　要：总结了一款纯棉色织仿丝绸提花织物的设计与关键生产技术。介绍了织物规格、组织以及经纬纱组合;采用筒子染色,整浆联合工艺,车速40 m/min,上浆率15%±0.5%,回潮率8%±0.5%,伸长率0.7%,浆槽温度96℃;织机的开口时间为300°,上机张力2500 N,车速600 r/min;织物经退浆、轧光、定型等后整理。试织结果为:织造效率87%,下机一等品率92%,入库一等品率99%;织物水洗尺寸变化率<±3%;经向断裂强力为235 N,纬向断裂强力为186 N。The design and key production technology of a kind of cotton yarn-dyed silk-like jacquard fabric are summarized.The fabric specification,fabric weave,warp and weft combination are introduced.Cheese dyeing and warping-sizing unit process are adopted,and the speed of warping-sizing machine is 40 m/min,the sizing rate is 15%±0.5%,the moisture regain is 8%±0.5%,the elongation is 0.7%,and the temperature in sizing box is 96℃;opening time of the loom is 300℃,warp tension is 2500 N,weaving machine speed is 600 r/min and desizing,calendaring and heat sitting are carried out.The results show that the loom efficiency can reache 87%,the first grade percentage before cloth repairing reached 92%,and the first-class rate of storage is 99%,the shrinkage rate of the fabric is less than 3%,the warp breaking strength of the fabric is 235 N,and the weft breaking strength of the fabric is 186 N.

关 键 词：棉织物 仿丝绸织物 织物规格 织物组织 产品设计 工艺参数 

分 类 号：TS115[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]