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作 者:刘赛 邓成亮 于伟东[1,3] LIU Sai;DENG Chengliang;YU Weidong(Key Laboratory of Textile Science&Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China;College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Guangzhou Inspection Testing and Certification Group Co.,Ltd,Guangzhou,Guangdong 511447,China)
机构地区:[1]东华大学纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室,上海201620 [2]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),浙江杭州310018 [3]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620 [4]广州检验检测认证集团有限公司,广东广州511447
出 处:《毛纺科技》2020年第8期1-6,共6页Wool Textile Journal
摘 要:间歇喂入式复合结构纺纱技术可赋予纱线独特的花式效果和外观风格。该技术对粗纱条(S式)由传统欠喂方式转换为周期性或随机性间断喂入;对长丝或细纱(F式)由传统超喂转换为周期性或随机性超喂,实现复合纱表面的竹节和花式效应。S式采用2轴系包芯纺,可克服纱线结构不稳定的弊病,竹节效果更逼真;引入第3轴系的绑定丝,既提高竹节效应,又增加纱线的结构稳定性。F式长丝间歇超喂采用3轴系结构复合纺,既能增加成纱的花式效果,又可使成纱结构稳定。该纺纱技术可获得花式效果、改善纱线结构和增加成纱多样性,可为织物的多样性及新品研发提供更多新型纱线选择。Complex yarns with spinning technology of complex structure by intermittently feeding show special fancy effect and appearance style.To bring out the slub and fancy effect on the surface of complex yarn,the technology of S-type for roving was from traditional underfeeding mode to the periodic or random intermittent feeding;F-type for filament or yarn was from traditional overfeeding mode to the periodic or random overfeeding.S-type core spun with 2-axis system can overcome the disadvantage of unstable structure,make the slub effect more realistic.The binding filament of the third axis system can also be added to strengthen the slug effect and improve the structural stability.Complex yarns with 3-axis structural spinning of F-type intermittently overfeeding show the fancy effect and stable structure.The spinning technology can complete fancy effect,improve structure,increase yarn diversity,and provide more options of new yarns for fabric diversity and new product development.
关 键 词:间歇式喂入 复合结构纱 结构成形 花式纱 纺纱装置
分 类 号:TS104[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]
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