五倍子染料在桑蚕丝/羊毛混纺织物上的染色性能  

Study on the dyeing properties of Chinese gallnut dye on silk/wool blended fabrics

作　　者：许磊[1,2] 张蓉 虞琳 陆涛 陶然 顾文娟[1,2] XU Lei;ZHANG Rong;YU Lin;LU Tao;TAO Ran;GU Wenjuan(Suzhou Institute of Trade&Commerce,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215009,China;Jiangsu Silk Technology and Materials Engineering Research and Development Center,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215009,China;National Silk and Gament Quality Supervision Testing Center,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215128,China;Suzhou Instituteof Fiber Inspection,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215128,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州经贸职业技术学院,江苏苏州215009 [2]江苏省丝绸工艺与材料工程技术研究开发中心,江苏苏州215009 [3]国家丝绸及服装产品质量监督检验中心,江苏苏州215128 [4]苏州市纤维检验院,江苏苏州215128

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第8期66-70,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：江苏省优秀科技创新团队资助(苏教科〔2017〕6号);江苏省大学生创业训练项目(201912685024T);苏州经贸职业技术学院院级项目(KY-ZRA1802)。

摘　　要：为了提高天然染料在纺织产业中的应用范围,从染色工艺开发及应用的角度研究了五倍子染料对桑蚕丝/羊毛混纺织物的染色性能。探讨了染色工艺、pH值、染色温度、染色时间、媒染剂用量、媒染时间等工艺参数对染色性能的影响。确定了五倍子染料对桑蚕丝/羊毛混纺织物染色的最优工艺为:采用后媒染染色工艺,浴比1∶50,pH值5,媒染剂质量浓度4 g/L,染色温度30℃,染色时间30 min,媒染时间30 min。桑蚕丝/羊毛混纺织物采用五倍子染料染色后色牢度较好,耐摩擦色牢度和耐水洗色牢度均达到4级或以上,且具有较好的紫外线防护性能及抗菌性能,UPF值可达50,金黄色葡萄球菌抑菌率可达92%,大肠杆菌抑菌率可达89%。In order to improve the application range of natural dyes in textile industry,the dyeing properties of gallnut dyes on silk/wool blended fabrics were studied from the perspective of dyeing process development and application.The effects of dyeing process,pH value,dyeing temperature,dyeing time,mordant dosage and mordant dyeing time on dyeing properties were discussed.The optimum dyeing process of silk/wool blended fabric with gallnut dye was determined as follows:post-mordant dyeing process,bath ratio 1∶50,pH value 5,mass concentration of mordant 4 g/L,dyeing temperature 30℃,dyeing time 30 min and mordant dyeing time 30min.The silk/wool blended fabric has good color fastness after dyeing with gallant dye,the color fastness to friction and water resistance reach grade 4 or above,and has good ultraviolet protection and antibacterial properties.The UPF value can reach 50,the antibacterial rate of Staphylococcus aureus can reach 92%,and the antibacterial rate of Escherichia coli can reach 89%.

关 键 词：天然染料 染色工艺 媒染剂 桑蚕丝/羊毛混纺织物 抗紫外线性能 抗菌性能 

分 类 号：TS193.62[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]