真丝绸胭脂虫红色素无媒染色  

Mordant-free dyeing of silk fabrics with cochineal carmine

作　　者：黄小萃 王毅婧[1] 刘臣[1] 邱海丽 HUANG Xiaocui;WANG Yijing;LIU Chen;QIU Haili(Institute of Applied Technology of Silk,Suzhou Vocational University,Suzhou 215002,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州市职业大学丝绸应用技术研究所,江苏苏州215002

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2020年第8期28-32,共5页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：江苏省大学生创新创业训练计划项目(201911054024Y);苏州市职业大学成果创新资助项目(SVU2019CX06)。

摘　　要：为使胭脂虫色素在无媒染时较好地上染真丝绸,采用聚乙烯亚胺来改性真丝织物。利用紫外光谱对所用色素进行定性分析,主要研究了胭脂虫红色素对改性真丝织物的工艺条件。结果表明,改性剂聚乙烯亚胺能提升胭脂虫红色素对真丝绸的染色性能。改性的最佳工艺为:改性剂质量浓度0.8 g/L,pH=8,改性温度60℃,改性时间50 min。胭脂虫红色素染色改性真丝织物的最优工艺为:胭脂虫红色素的质量分数为3%,染液的pH为7,染色温度为80℃,染色时间为60 min,染色浴比为1∶30。改性染色织物的K/S值不低于媒染染色,且耐皂洗色牢度比媒染染色提高1级。To obtain satisfied dyeing performance of silk fabrics dyed by cochineal carmine without metal mordant,polyethyleneimine is used to modify the silk fabrics.Cochineal dyes are analyzed by UV spectra,and process conditions of modified silk fabric with cochineal carmine are discussed.The results show that polyethyleneimine could improve dyeing performance of cochineal carmine on silk fabrics.The optimum modification conditions are as follows:modifying agent dosage 0.8 g/L,pH value 8,modification temperature of 60℃,and modification time of 50 min.The optimum mordant dyeing process is as follows:cochineal carmine dosage 3%(omf),pH value 7,modification temperature of 80℃,modification time of 60 min and liquor ratio of 1∶30.The K/S value of modified silk fabrics is not lower than those of mordant dyeings,and the color fastness to soaping is 1 grade higher than those of mordant dyeings.

关 键 词：胭脂虫红色素 染色 媒染 真丝绸 改性 

分 类 号：TS193.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]