一种环锭色纺羽绒混纺纱的开发  

Development of a kind of ring spinning down blended yarn

作　　者：赵菊梅[1] 蒯大文 赵长万 戴俊[3] 张圣忠[1] ZHAO Jumei;KUAI Dawen;ZHAO Changwan;DAI Jun;ZHANG Shengzhong(Yancheng Polytechnic College,Yancheng 224005,Jiangsu,China;Jiangsu Zhongheng Textile Co.,Ltd.,Yancheng 224400,Jiangsu,China;Jiangsu Yueda Textile Group Co.,Ltd.,Yancheng 224005,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]盐城工业职业技术学院,江苏盐城224005 [2]江苏中恒纺织有限责任公司,江苏盐城224400 [3]江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司,江苏盐城224005

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2020年第8期37-39,43,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：2019江苏省高职院校青年教师企业实践培训项目(2019QYSJ198);2019年江苏省产学研合作项目(BY2019198)。

摘　　要：将羽绒纤维和精梳棉、功能黏胶相结合,运用环锭纺、色纺及赛络紧密纺技术,采用"弱分梳、小定量、慢车速"工艺,开发了一种环锭色纺羽绒混纺纱,羽绒绒朵可有效固定于纱体上,形成独特的绒面风格特征。工艺实践表明,羽绒纤维含量宜取5%~25%,与普通品种棉/黏混纺纱相比,各工序定量应降低15%~25%,车速降低10%~15%,粗纱和细纱捻系数增大10%~15%。测试结果显示,成纱断裂强度达12.4 cN/tex,断裂强力变异系数11.5%,达到一等纱品质要求。纱线成品风格独特,色泽大方自然,手感蓬松细滑,体感亲肤保暖,不需经过后道染整加工,可广泛用于各类保暖面料。A ring spinning down blended yarn is developed,by combining down fiber with combed cotton and functional viscose,using ring spinning,colored spinning and Siro compact spinning technology,and adopting"weak carding,small quantity and slow speed"technology.Down could be effectively fixed on the yarn body to form a unique down style.The process practice shows that the suitable blending ratio of down fibers is 5%~25%.Compared with ordinary cotton/viscose blended yarn,the quantity of each process should be reduced by 15%~25%,the speed should be reduced by 10%~15%,and the twist factor of roving and spinning should be increased by 10%~15%.The results show that the breaking strength of the yarn reaches 12.4 cN/tex and the variation coefficient of breaking strength is11.5%,and the yarn ca reached the first-class yarn quality requirements.The yarn has unique style and natural color,feel fluffy and smoothly,skin-friendly and warmly,without sequence dyeing and finishing.It can be widely used in plenty kinds of warm fabrics.

关 键 词：羽绒 棉 黏胶 混纺纱 色纺纱 

分 类 号：TS106.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]