南方少数民族贯首衣的领部结构及其造型探析  

Collar Structure and Style of Guanshou Costume of Minorities in Southern China

作　　者：李昕 贺阳 LI Xin;HE Yang(Ethnic Costume Museum,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆,北京100029

出　　处：《服装学报》2020年第4期300-309,共10页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：北京服装学院博士项目(NHFZ20190110);柒牌非物质文化遗产研究与保护基金一般项目(201705);北京服装学院高水平教师队伍建设专项资金项目(BIFTTD201804)。

摘　　要：贯首衣是人类早期的服装形制之一,至今仍为许多少数民族所穿用,由于“留口出首”的穿着方式,其领部结构成为了贯首衣整体造型中的核心所在。根据领部的开口形态和造型方式对南方少数民族贯首衣进行分类研究,结合实物测绘与田野调查的方法,对服饰样本数据、制作方式、穿着方式进行分析,探讨贯首衣领部结构与布料、人体、衣身结构以及整体服饰造型间的关系,并从中提炼出对现代服饰设计具有启发意义的方法与理念。Guanshou costume is one of the earliest clothes and are still woren by many minorities.The collar structure is the core of the guanshou costume,as its wearing way of"put on pullovers".This paper classified the guanshou costume of minorities in southern China based on the style and design of collars.The sapmling data,cutting and dressing methods,and wearing way of guanshou costume were analyzed through the way of actual measurement and field study.Besides,the relationship between collar structure and cloth,figure,or the clothes structure and overall style,were also discussed,to extract the methods and ideas that can inspire fashion design.

关 键 词：南方少数民族 贯首衣 领部 结构 造型 

分 类 号：TS941.742.8[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]