基于重经结构的双面絣织织物的设计与开发  

Design and development of Ikat fabrics based on double warp weave

作　　者：袁利华[1] YUAN Lihua(Zhejiang Agricultural Business College,Shaoxing,Zhejiang 312000,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江农业商贸职业学院,浙江绍兴312000

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第9期22-24,共3页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：浙江农业商贸职业学院2018年高层次人才科研专项课题(GCCKY201803)。

摘　　要：为了让絣织织物更好地满足消费者个性化、多元化需求,针对目前絣织织物仅一面有纹样、织物外观效果比较单一的问题,分析絣织织物纹样设计、上机图设计和扎染技术并进行总结。结果表明:扎染技术可使表里层经纱分别形成纹样,并与重经组织结构进行配合形成双面都有纹样的絣织织物。以织物表层经纱纹样为龟背纹、里层经纱纹样为回字纹,以四枚斜纹为基本组织形成的重经组织为例,织造出的双面絣织织物,可用于服装服饰、家纺产品以及文化创意产品的开发,对絣织传统工艺和文化的传承与弘扬具有实践意义。In order to better fulfill the personalized and diversified demands of consumers on Ikat fabric,and to solve the problems of pattern on one side and the issue of single appearance effect of Ikat fabric,the pattern design,looming draft design and tie-dye technology were analyzed and summarized in this article.The result shows that tie-dye technology can form the patterns of inner and outer meridians respectively and combine with the structure of double warp weave.Take the geometric Ikat fabric as an example,the front is turtle back pattern and the back pattern is hui(回)-shaped,the warp binding and plant dyeing is carried out according to the pattern design drawing,and the four twills on the inside and outside of the fabric are used to cooperate to form the double warp structure,and the fabric is weaving on sample loom.The double side woven fabric has strong applicability,can be used for the development of clothing,home textile products and cultural and creative products,it has practical significance for the inheritance and development of Ikat fabric traditional weaving technology and culture.

关 键 词：絣织 重经组织结构 双面织物 织物设计 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]