西装领制板及其改良工艺  

Study on pattern making and process improvement of suit collar

作　　者：管伟丽[1] GUAN Weili(Department of Textile and Clothing,Shandong Vocational College of Science&Technology,Weifang,Shandong 261053,China)

机构地区：[1]山东科技职业学院纺织服装系,山东潍坊261053

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第9期74-77,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：山东省高等学校人文社科计划项目(J17RB225)。

摘　　要：为优化西装领的制板方法,提升成衣领部平服美观的着装效果,针对西装领制板中无法精确控制倒伏量的问题,采用前后领片分解绘制并拼合完成一片式西装领的制板,通过改良两片式西装领大小领的分领方法、工艺细节及裁剪方式完成两片式西装领的制板。结果表明:一片式西装领的制板准确率高,无需通过样衣调试修正,其倒伏量随翻领宽度变化相应发生变化;两片式西装领的制板改善了成衣领部的舒适度和美观性。领面和领底分领式裁剪方式的操作难度低、归拔工艺简单,成衣效果好。以期为服装企业及高校在西装领制板与制作工艺方面提供参考。In order to optimize the pattern making method of the suit collar and improve the dressing effect of the garment collar,aiming at the problem that the lodging amount cannot be accurately controlled in the pattern making of the suit collar,the front and back collar pieces were decomposed and assembled to complete the pattern making of one piece suit collar.Through improving the split collar method,process details and cutting method of two-piece suit collar,the pattern making of two-piece suit collar was completed.The results show that the accuracy of one-piece suit collar is high,and the lodging amount changes with lapel width.The comfort and aesthetics of the collar improved due to the two-piece collar pattern making method.The operation difficulty of the split collar cutting method is low,the drawing process is simple and the garment effect is good,which provided a reference for clothing enterprises and colleges in the collar pattern making and production technology.

关 键 词：西装领 西装制板 制作工艺 倒伏量 

分 类 号：TS941.631[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]