全成形平肩袖毛衫袖身连接工艺分段设计  

Sleeve-body connection technique for segmentation design of whole-garment flat-sleeve sweaters

作　　者：陈曦 缪旭红 牛丽 韩晓雪 蒋高明[1] CHEN Xi;MIAO Xuhong;NIU Li;HAN Xiaoxue;JIANG Gaoming(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2020年第9期76-80,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：泰山产业领军人才项目(tscy20180224);无锡市针织科技服务平台项目(WX03-07D0304-021700-06)。

摘　　要：为利用四针床电脑横机开发符合市场需求的全成形毛衫,以平肩袖毛衫为例,探讨了全成形毛衫袖身连接工艺分段设计方法与袖身连接工艺。认为全成形平肩袖毛衫袖身连接处可分为3个部分编织:袖山与袖窿同时收针编织、袖山收针-袖窿平摇编织、平袖山收针-袖窿平摇后放针编织。当毛衫袖山与袖窿之间高度差较大时,应采用较大的平袖山编收比率与袖身编织比率,通过编织更多的衣身行数弥补转数差,袖山与袖窿间弧度的差异可通过增加袖山收针次数调节。要根据毛衫袖身工艺参数以及袖山、袖窿在结构上的差异设计全成形毛衫袖身连接处编织工艺,才可得到贴合人体曲线的毛衫。In order to develop whole-garment sweaters that meet the market demand by using the four-needle-bed flat knitting machine,this paper describes a segmental design method for sleeve-body connection taking the flat-sleeve sweater as an example.The process of whole-garment flat-sleeve sweater at the joint of sleeve and body was divided into three parts:sleeve-top and armhole narrow at the same time,sleeve-top narrows while armhole flat knit,flat sleeve-top narrows while armhole widens after flat knit.If the height difference between the sleeve-top and the armhole is large,a larger knitting ratio was used to compensate for the difference in the number of turns by knitting more body rows.The difference in curvature between the sleeve-top and the armhole of sweater was adjusted by increasing the narrowing number in the sleeve-top.According to the technological parameters of the sleeve-body of the sweater and the structural differences between the sleeve-top and the armhole,the knitting process of the sleeve-body joint of the whole-garment sweater has been developed,enabling the sweater to fit the body curve.

关 键 词：全成形编织 平肩袖毛衫 袖身连接 编织比率 收放针工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]