亚洲男士西服基本纸样自动生成系统的建立  

Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men′s suits

作　　者：凌雅丽 朱凌轩 邵晓煊 李泽辉 钟安华 LING Yali;ZHU Lingxuan;SHAO Xiaoxuan;LI Zehui;ZHONG Anhua(School of Fashion, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China;Laboratory of Virtual Simulation in Hubei Province, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]湖北省虚拟仿真实验室,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《纺织学报》2020年第9期108-113,118,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：湖北省教育厅科技项目(D20121707);湖北省虚拟仿真实验室建设项目(D141091003)。

摘　　要：为满足服装企业对制版系统高度智能化的要求,以亚洲男士西服为例构建纸样自动生成系统。首先选取10个亚洲品牌的30件男士西服作为样本,以手工测量的16个细部尺寸数据为基础,运用SPSS数据统计软件对其进行主成分因子分析、相关性分析和回归分析,建立西服纸样参数化设计数学模型,并以MatLab为平台编程,结合西服纸样数学模型及制版方法设计自动生成系统。结果表明:胸围是影响西服版型的关键参数,前衣长、后衣长、腰围、下摆围与胸围的相关性最强;以胸围为自变量所建立的参数化数学模型可用于西服纸样自动生成系统编程,程序优化后的自动生成系统只需输入胸围尺寸就可得到西服版型,初步实现男士西服基本纸样的自动生成。In order to satisfy the requirements for smart pattern making,an automatic generation system for suits′pattern was developed.Firstly,30 classic men′s suits of 10 brands in Asia were selected for study.Based on the 16 detailed size data of the suits,the principal component factor analysis,correlation analysis and regression analysis were carried out using SPSS.Based on the regression equation obtained from the analysis,the parameterized design mathematical model of the suit pattern was established.MatLab was used as the platform of programming to develop the automatic pattern generation system,combining the mathematical model of the suit pattern of the suit and the method of plate making.The results show that bust is the key parameter that affects the suits′pattern,and the correlation between front length,back length,waist circumference,hem circumference and bust is the strongest.The parameterized mathematical model based on bust as an independent variable can be used to program the automatic pattern generation system of suit pattern,and the optimized automatic pattern generation system is able to output the suit pattern by inputting the size of the bust,facilitating initially the automatic generation of the basic pattern of men′s suits.

关 键 词：亚洲男士西服 西服纸样 参数化设计 自动生成系统 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]